Swapped out the incorrect TBI pump, put in the CMFI pump and we're off to the races, baby. Oddly, doing so cleared up my codes as well, without even having to disconnect the battery for 30 secs first.

So once again for those following in my footsteps, get the fuel pressure gauge tool first. Also use a Nascar style floor jack (on rollers, long handle, quick turn release) to prop up the tank at several different heights. But if you don't have one, be prepared with numerous blocks of differing heights, including some wooden shims.

If you're doing the fuel pump, always do the fuel filter as well. You mix a lot of crap up when you change everything and it all gets pushed into the filter (replace the filter last, after you've run a little bit through the old one; no point immediately gumming up the new one, right?).

I cheaped out originally (they cost about 10 bucks) and later swapped it out because it was full of crap, even though only 1 year old.

And have patience. Don't be afraid to approach a problem from a different angle or ask a seemingly stupid question. It wasn't until I asked a stupid question that I finally got a smart answer.


p.s. thanks to those who replied.

 

I had the same problem when I replaced my pump. Got smart and tested it out of the vehicle on the second go round. Read 64 psi. After you get everything in there is what's known as a fuel pump test port. It's great for checking FPR for leakage before you install the upper plenum. It's a wire that runs directly to the pump and you can check your pressure and watch for leaks at the same time. It should show up in most wiring diagrams but if you need details I'd be happy to help. I've posted this several times as to where it is (at least where mine is). Just run a 15 amp FUSED jumper directly from the battery to the port wire. It'll run the pump until the battery dies if you want it to. This is straight from the factory manual so it's not shooting from the hip.