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'95 Jimmy 4x4 Bad Acceleration
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My 95 Jimmy 4x4 has bad accelaration. Engine idles fine and starts up. Has 181,000 miles on it. Pic of dash gauge, is engine at idle, my check engine light flashes. But when I took it to AutoZone to have it scanned it couldn't read, only said "Error".
When I switch gears I can feel it jump into gear, only when I press the gas it takes awhile to gain speed but still acts as if it has trouble breathing. As I come to a stop applying my foot on the brake, I can hear a whining sound that gets louder the more I press on the brake and quiets down if I come IP off the brake. When I get on the highway I can reach only 55mph before the passenger side bottom of my truck has smoke coming out. I'll take the nearest exit and drive 25-35 and the smoking stops. Recently I looked under the truck after driving on the highway and left the engine running, transmission fluid was leaking from what looked like the lower bellhousing and on the transmission pan. Fluid was dripping on the exhaust pipe and causing smoke... I've removed the catalytic converter and accelaration is slightly better, meaning before I could've always move and now it moves forward (slowly and picks up) everytime I'm pressing the gas halfway to the floor. Doesn't move in reverse at all. So what seems to be my problem? My next move is to replace the spark plugs, then fuel filter, then transmission filter and pan gasket. Any input is appreciated! |
Check the fuel injectors. In my 95 mine had the same problem, except mine started dying driving down the road. Just check and see if they're going bad. The parts are about $300 and I had the job and parts done for $400.
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flashing check engine light is usually a cylinder misfire
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May be in limp mode and starting out in 2nd gear. And driving it with it stuck in 2nd at highway speeds will overheat and fluid will come out the breather. What is the fluid level and condition?
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Originally Posted by Transman304
(Post 678203)
May be in limp mode and starting out in 2nd gear. And driving it with it stuck in 2nd at highway speeds will overheat and fluid will come out the breather. What is the fluid level and condition?
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Originally Posted by newguy
(Post 678205)
and rpm at 55 mph
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well it looks like it shifts forward fine. tightening up the exhaust is a good place to start. you really need to do a fuel pressure leakdown test before driving it anymore, your gonna destroy this truck also
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Originally Posted by newguy
(Post 678258)
well it looks like it shifts forward fine. tightening up the exhaust is a good place to start. you really need to do a fuel pressure leakdown test before driving it anymore, your gonna destroy this truck also
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holy crap, that could be a big problem
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scrolll down several sections and theres a pic of a fix you can do. They are called comression couplers/fittings
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Originally Posted by newguy
(Post 678268)
scrolll down several sections and theres a pic of a fix you can do. They are called comression couplers/fittings
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sorry didnt add the link , they`re called flanges and I think thers gaskets. The auto parts store sohuld be able to help with and the bolt size heres the link https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...-filter-91472/
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Ok I bought a straight pipe to temporarily replace the cat converter. The measuring tape pics are the measurements of the gap from the missing cat. The pipe I bought is 18" long and the holes are 2 1/2". The gap under my truck where the cat used to be is 14 1/2 and the pipe hole is 2 1/2. Is the pipe I bought too long? And should I have gotten a size smaller hole to slide it in easily? Also I bought bolt clamps to clamp it down.
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cut the pipe with a hacksaw. you will need to buy adapters
to connnect them |
Originally Posted by newguy
(Post 678281)
cut the pipe with a hacksaw. you will need to buy adapters
to connnect them |
if the new pipe slides over the old you should be good. length and everything. if they are the exact same size you will need adapters
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What are the bolts to the flange that connect the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold? Couldn't I just pull 6 good ones from a newer car or truck at a salvage yard?
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Originally Posted by Tynan Tha Real Dill
(Post 678308)
What are the bolts to the flange that connect the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold? Couldn't I just pull 6 good ones from a newer car or truck at a salvage yard?
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Originally Posted by newguy
(Post 678309)
I would get new ones from an auto parts store or hardware store
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Originally Posted by Tynan Tha Real Dill
(Post 678311)
Do they have to be those exact bolts with the springs or just a bolt and nut ?
auto parts store |
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Is this the Schrader valve to check the fuel pressure?
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Transmission must've been over filled. Dropped the pan then added 5 quarts and 24 oz of Lucas transmission fix. Acceleration is almost perfect, so I'm headed to check fuel pressure now. Then tighten those exhaust lines down. I also noticed the oil is a little over filled so I'm going to drain some out and see what that does. In case I change the oil, how many quarts at refill?
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buy 5 but check during the 5th one
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Originally Posted by newguy
(Post 678419)
buy 5 but check during the 5th one
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Did you fix the twisted fuel line at the filter? If so you may have a bad fuel regulator. When you said motor oil was overfull does it happen to have a fuel smell? If the regulator is leaking externally it will go in the oil.
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Originally Posted by Transman304
(Post 678442)
Did you fix the twisted fuel line at the filter? If so you may have a bad fuel regulator. When you said motor oil was overfull does it happen to have a fuel smell? If the regulator is leaking externally it will go in the oil.
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Originally Posted by Transman304
(Post 678442)
Did you fix the twisted fuel line at the filter? If so you may have a bad fuel regulator. When you said motor oil was overfull does it happen to have a fuel smell? If the regulator is leaking externally it will go in the oil.
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The twisted line could cause the lack of acceleration and the regulator leak could cause the rapid leak down on the gauge. Your video shows an immediate jump to 60 psi. That's good pressure. Then it drops immediately. That's a failed leak down.
The next step is to test the fuel pressure and leak down at the filter. It should reach 70-100 psi and remain above 50 psi for 10 minutes. If the pressure holds above 50 psi at the filter, then the leak is in the intake. If not, the leak is in the tank. |
Ok I'll do the test at the filter. What about the possibllity of bad o2 sensor? This guy has the same symtoms as mine...
https://youtu.be/3hznBblo0Ys |
I'd solve the failed leak down and replace the twisted line.
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Originally Posted by Tynan Tha Real Dill
(Post 678456)
Ok I'll do the test at the filter. What about the possibllity of bad o2 sensor? This guy has the same symtoms as mine...
https://youtu.be/3hznBblo0Ys . it will be cheaper in the long run |
I'm going to replace the fuel pressure regulator today and clean my EGR valve and give it a gasket with the mesh screen.
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Whats the pricing and names of those fuel line pieces?
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I`m done
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Originally Posted by newguy
(Post 678501)
I`m done
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What was the fuel pressure and leak down reading at the filter?
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Originally Posted by Rusty Nuts
(Post 678506)
What was the fuel pressure and leak down reading at the filter?
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Those results mean the fuel pump isn't performing up to specs. The pump can't supply enough fuel to rev the engine.
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Originally Posted by Rusty Nuts
(Post 678520)
Those results mean the fuel pump isn't performing up to specs. The pump can't supply enough fuel to rev the engine.
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