If the threads are still good on the rocker that you are trying to remove you can run 2 nuts onto it and tighten them against each other. If you get them tight enough you should be able to use a wrench on the bottom nut and remove the stud.

 

I'm sorry I started a job yestetday. Here are the pics of the stud from both side from the top...

 

Do you own a torch?, heat the nut up red hot, clamp some vise grips on and give it a go. A propane head and a bottle of mapp gas should work

 

OK these are pics of the distrubitor pointer pointing at the 6 on the lip of the rotor, the timing lines on the harmonic balancer, and the flushed seating of the distributor to the intake manifold. At TDC #1. I also have a video setting it to TDC #1 and showing these points right after its done. I also uploaded a pic of my mileage.

 

No I dont own a torch. Its not that those sockets didnt work, they weren't deep enough to grab the bolt. Are their any deep sockets that are similar to those ?

 

Thats a good suggestion, I'll definitely try that !

 

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The stud does not seem very damaged to me. In my opinion, it is obvious you have been using either a 12-point socket, or the wrong size socket to try to take it out - a correct 6-point would have damaged it far more if it slipped. You will need a good-fitting 6-point socket to get it out. Also, the socket will need to be held securely against the head (past the stud) or it will start riding up as you turn it (just like your socket did - I can see the marks).

Can anyone confirm the socket size for the rocker stud? I have never taken one of these out on a 4.3. Are they metric?

Standing in front of the vehicle, there should be 1 mark on the balancer located at about 1:00 and another at about 5:00. The one at 1:00 should be aligned with the mark seen on this cover (yours is too greasy for me to truly make out this mark clearly, but it is in approximately the right place base on shape of the outer edge of the cover). Chevrolet / GMC V6 262 4.3L Engine Timing Cover Dorman 635-502 | eBay
The distributor rotor is indeed pointing where it should. So if marks on balancer and timing cover are lined up correctly, What you need to worry about is if the engine is on TDC#1 or TDC#4. You do understand that the marks are only correct during every other revolution of the crankshaft? - 4 stroke engine you know!

The way that I would tell is to take #1 spark plug out and stick my finger over the spark plug hole. Use a big finger and don't stick it inside the hole (remember what can happen to things stuck in the cylinder). I have someone else tap the starter just a bit at a time on the engine until l start to feel compression (it will blow your finger off the hole). Then know that the very next time rotation of the crank lines up the marks (won't be far), that is TDC#1 - so once you feel compression, don't use the starter to turn anymore - turn it manually. Then once on verified TDC#1, check where the rotor is pointing.

I see an orange gasket out of place under the plastic cover for the intake manifold in pic 7 of 8 and a loose bolt.

 

I really doubt that double-nutting will hold tightly enough to break loose a rocker stud. If you do try it just don't try it with nuts you will ever use for your rockers.

 

nice observation ! OK and yea it seems as if the socket size I'm using is slightly too big, biggest deep metric socket I have is 15mm and I believe thats too small.

 

He's got the valve covers off should be easy to find TDC when it closes both valves and goes for the compression stroke. Just find the correct spot with the piston up. As nothing has changed in the valvetrain the mark should be correct then.

Could actually be metric. I know that the 1st gen used replacement studs with an M10 thread. So it could be 17 or 19 mm wrench or socket as well. May need to get a hold of a manual.

Anybody in the forum got a 1997 one?