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98 Blazer wants to but won't start...

Old Feb 27, 2013 | 05:36 AM
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Default 98 Blazer wants to but won't start...

Got a 98 that was running, horribly, was pushing a P0300 and had very little power, couldn't keep it running without feathering the pedal. After moving it, it started getting harder to start, until it just wouldn't start at all, not even with starting fluid, which I don't like using as it is. Anyone got any ideas, I know it's getting fuel, but plugs seem a like they are getting fouled, I'm thinking it might be either ignition switch, or coil/distributor, anything else?
 
Old Mar 4, 2013 | 11:27 AM
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take it to some sand pits burn it and claim insurance on it
 
Old Mar 4, 2013 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by epilou
Got a 98 that was running, horribly, was pushing a P0300 and had very little power, couldn't keep it running without feathering the pedal. After moving it, it started getting harder to start, until it just wouldn't start at all, not even with starting fluid, which I don't like using as it is. Anyone got any ideas, I know it's getting fuel, but plugs seem a like they are getting fouled, I'm thinking it might be either ignition switch, or coil/distributor, anything else?
It could be your injectors
 
Old Mar 4, 2013 | 01:58 PM
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P0300 is almost always caused by a fault in the secondary ignition system: Spark plugs, (should be AC Delco 41-993 with .060" gap). Spark plug wires, (need to be good quality). Distributor cap & rotor, (should also be AC Delco). Ignition coil, (needs to be good quality). Incorrect camshaft retard can also set P0300 series DTC's. If the distributor has not been moved, it may be OK. Low fuel pressure can also cause it, but if adding starting fluid doesn't help, and the plugs are fouled, those are pretty strong indicators that it's probably not a fuel issue. Start with an AC Delco distributor cap & rotor. Apply a dab of silicone dielectric grease to each terminal, inside and out, of the cap. Post your results.
 
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 07:42 AM
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Well I couldn't get spark after I had checked, replaced rotor, found a corroded ICM, and it's better than before, but just won't catch. It actually has started a few times. I'm thinking that it's fuel pressure, but don't have a gauge to check with, any ideas?
 
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 08:01 AM
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One more thing, I do see that the oil has fuel in it, so this is the reason I'm thinking pressure is too low.
 
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 02:48 PM
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Had a almost similar problem mine died, acted like it wanted to start but wouldn't it was the fuel pump. My buddy did a pressure test, all he did was shoot the fuel, he said if it dont go almost if not the length of your truck then its ur fuel pump. He replaced it and it starts great now. Basically if u can pee farther then the fuel shoots replace the fuel pump as he said LOL
 
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 04:54 PM
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If it doesn't start with starting fluid, that's a clue that fuel is not the issue, (low fuel pressure causes a lean condition). If you have a misfire caused by poor or no spark, the injectors still keep squirting fuel, even while cranking the starter. If the fuel doesn't burn, the liquid fuel seeps past the rings and ends up in the oil.

You can check fuel pressure easy enough, and it's free, we can help you with the specs and procedure. But with the symptoms you described, I'd consider the distributor cap, rotor, plugs & wires first.
 
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 06:06 AM
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Baker, wish I could but when I first bought the truck it needed a lot of work, but was only $300 which in NS is more than a steal, just haven't been able to get it on the road yet. Had to replace the IM gaskets, and a couple other things, but nothing expensive yet, did some body work, in total I think I have put in maybe 500 on the whole. So not willing to scrap it just yet!
 
Old Mar 7, 2013 | 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Captain Hook
If it doesn't start with starting fluid, that's a clue that fuel is not the issue, (low fuel pressure causes a lean condition). If you have a misfire caused by poor or no spark, the injectors still keep squirting fuel, even while cranking the starter. If the fuel doesn't burn, the liquid fuel seeps past the rings and ends up in the oil.

You can check fuel pressure easy enough, and it's free, we can help you with the specs and procedure. But with the symptoms you described, I'd consider the distributor cap, rotor, plugs & wires first.
Forgot to mention that after I got spark back, used starting fluid again and got it to start, but I'm really not into using the stuff! What's funny is my plugs we're carbon'd right up, one was actually touching there was so much carbon build up. I had black smoke coming out with a lot of soot, and if I got it past 1000rpm, it would run great, so it sounds like a rich condition. Maybe regulator?
 

Last edited by epilou; Mar 7, 2013 at 06:13 AM.

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