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Alternative P1870 fix-so-far

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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 02:34 PM
  #31  
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oh, and I did not put in a new electrical motor, but I did put in a new wiring harness.
 
Old Mar 29, 2011 | 01:02 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by drblaze
You'll want a new pan gasket, and both the paper-thin separator plate gaskets that go on either side of the VB separator plate.
Thanks, just orderd the gaskets.

/qsec
 
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 09:56 AM
  #33  
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Is there a special torque for the valve body?

Thanks,

/qsec
 
Old Apr 1, 2011 | 03:11 PM
  #34  
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I have a vague memory of 90 inch lbs, but I don't trust it and neither should you. Check that video clip in the original post. If he doesn't say it there, he does in another video available on YT, I'm just not sure which. The Haynes manual doesn't list the torque for the VB bolts. Sorry, not much help.
 
Old Apr 1, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #35  
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Detent Spring to Valve Body Bolt 15 - 20 ft.lb
Forward Accumulator Cover to Valve Body Bolt 6 - 10 ft.lb
Pressure Control Solenoid Bracket to Valve Body Bolt 6 - 10 ft.lb
Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position Switch to Valve Body Bolt 25 - 30 ft.lb
Valve Body to Case Bolt 6 - 10 ft.lb
 
Old Apr 2, 2011 | 11:02 AM
  #36  
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Nice. Thank you!
 
Old Apr 6, 2011 | 02:36 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by swartlkk
Detent Spring to Valve Body Bolt 15 - 20 ft.lb
Forward Accumulator Cover to Valve Body Bolt 6 - 10 ft.lb
Pressure Control Solenoid Bracket to Valve Body Bolt 6 - 10 ft.lb
Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position Switch to Valve Body Bolt 25 - 30 ft.lb
Valve Body to Case Bolt 6 - 10 ft.lb
Thanks for the info.
I'm about to install the valve this topic is about.
Do i have to unbolt all this mentioned above?

Or is it just some of this above, and if so which parts is it?
I'm not familiar with the names above. Maybe someone has a exploded view of the valve body in the gearbox and the names of the different parts?

Thanks again.

/qsec
 
Old Apr 7, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by qsecofr
Thanks for the info.
I'm about to install the valve this topic is about.
Do i have to unbolt all this mentioned above?

Or is it just some of this above, and if so which parts is it?
I'm not familiar with the names above. Maybe someone has a exploded view of the valve body in the gearbox and the names of the different parts?

Thanks again.

/qsec
You will have to remove the oil pan and remove the valve body. then you can access the valve. if you want an exploded view of what valves to replace and in what order, click on the instruction valve PDF file that i posted in post #27 ........that will tell you
 
Old Apr 7, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by bigdaddykane93
You will have to remove the oil pan and remove the valve body. then you can access the valve. if you want an exploded view of what valves to replace and in what order, click on the instruction valve PDF file that i posted in post #27 ........that will tell you

I understand that i have to remove the pan and the valve body to replace the valve.
What I meant is which torque is relevant for this valve replacement from swartlkk post?
Is it all of them or just “Valve Body to Case Bolt 6 - 10 ft.lb”
Thanks,
/qsec
 
Old Apr 8, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by qsecofr
I understand that i have to remove the pan and the valve body to replace the valve.
What I meant is which torque is relevant for this valve replacement from swartlkk post?
Is it all of them or just “Valve Body to Case Bolt 6 - 10 ft.lb”
Thanks,
/qsec
I actually recommed that all those bolts that he posted be torqued to 96 inch pounds instead. remember INCH pounds and not foot pounds. I would be scared to tighted the little manifold pressure switch bolts that is at the bottom of the valve body to 25-30 foot pounds. i would guess that it may strip the casing treads in my opinion.....but thats my guess. and the video in the begining of the tread say to torque to 96 inch pounds too
 



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