from automatic to manual
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Adams,MA
Posts: 69

i read some threads out there but still havent seen an anwser to this.
97 blazer 2 door automatic (floor shift) 4x4
i'm thinking about putting in a manual trans mission and want to know if anyone has actually done this, so i know what i'm getting myself into.
i work at a junkyard and use the hollander system. it says my speedo, engine computer, transfer case, front drive shaft and frame, are all the same as a non zr2 manual blazer.
so all i need is the clutch parts, transmission and rear drive shaft???
i read something about exhaust and transmission crossmember possibly being different but my guess is they are the same. but i'd like to have a definitive anwser!
if i'm right i'm gonna do the swap!!! please help!!!
97 blazer 2 door automatic (floor shift) 4x4
i'm thinking about putting in a manual trans mission and want to know if anyone has actually done this, so i know what i'm getting myself into.
i work at a junkyard and use the hollander system. it says my speedo, engine computer, transfer case, front drive shaft and frame, are all the same as a non zr2 manual blazer.
so all i need is the clutch parts, transmission and rear drive shaft???
i read something about exhaust and transmission crossmember possibly being different but my guess is they are the same. but i'd like to have a definitive anwser!
if i'm right i'm gonna do the swap!!! please help!!!
#2
Although your trucks computer is programmed for an automatic transmission when you install the 5 speed transmission you will still be able to drive the truck although it will set off a whole bunch of check engine codes such as p0785, p1860, p1810, p0758, p0753, p0740. In order to correct the check engine codes you will need to go to your local dealer and get them to re-flash your computer to tell it that the truck is manual. The only wiring required for the whole swap is to wire in the reverse lights from the manual transmission into the automatic transmission harness which is really simple and only requires splicing in two wires. I was surprised to find that even before getting the computer re-flashed the cruise control still worked and you even need to press the clutch pedal in when you start the truck just as if it were stick from the factory. One tip for making the swap easy and headache free would be to place all the nuts and bolts in plastic zip loc bags and label where they came from and how many there were, this will save you time and aggravation upon reassembly. One issue that some people may run into is the issue of the y-pipe from the automatic not fitting properly once the standard transmission is installed, the problem occurs because the new transmission will sit a little bit lower which makes the y-pipe hit the bottom of the transmission. To solve this problem you can either search around for a standard transmission y-pipe or cut out the section of the automatic y-pipe where it hits the transmission and get a new piece of pipe bent to fit and welded in.
Here is a list of the parts that you will need to do the swap:
· Transmission (NV3500 for a 4.3) & (NV1500 for a 2.2)
· Clutch pedal assembly
· Clutch master cylinder (make sure it has the clutch safety switch)
· Clutch line
· Flywheel
· Clutch pressure plate
· Slave cylinder (this is the throw-out bearing)
· Shifter handle
· Shifter boot
· Pilot bearing (GM part #12557583)
· Transmission oil (GM part #12345349, the Canadian part # I believe is 89021808) The NV1500 uses different fluid
· Bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid (this is the fluid used in the clutch master cylinder)
· Reverse harness plug pigtail
Here is a list of the parts that you will need to do the swap:
· Transmission (NV3500 for a 4.3) & (NV1500 for a 2.2)
· Clutch pedal assembly
· Clutch master cylinder (make sure it has the clutch safety switch)
· Clutch line
· Flywheel
· Clutch pressure plate
· Slave cylinder (this is the throw-out bearing)
· Shifter handle
· Shifter boot
· Pilot bearing (GM part #12557583)
· Transmission oil (GM part #12345349, the Canadian part # I believe is 89021808) The NV1500 uses different fluid
· Bottle of DOT 3 brake fluid (this is the fluid used in the clutch master cylinder)
· Reverse harness plug pigtail
Last edited by DySfUnCtIoNaL; 06-18-2011 at 10:45 AM.
#6
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Adams,MA
Posts: 69

i'm going for it!! i bought a 5 speed from another junkyard today. i'm waiting for them to tell me when i can pick it up. they said they'd throw in the flywheel and clutch parts for me! i found a driveshaft and master cylinder in my yard.. cant wait to get started, one concern i have is the neutral safty switch??? also what is the location of the reverse light wires on my automatic??? .. guess i'll figure it out when i get there.
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Adams,MA
Posts: 69

so i've got a problem... i'm trying to put the 5speed in the car right now. and all the bolt holes and guide pins line up but i cant get the tranny flush with the block, i shook it all around so much that my motor is moving. i tried pulling it with the bolts, i dont dare try to tighten them anymore.
the only thing i can think of is... my clutch kit came with 2 bearings, a small one and a larger one, i didnt use the small one because it seemed loose on my input shaft and my input shaft is pitted.
maybe i wasnt supposed to use the larger one???
or maybe the guide pins are too big???
if i only put in the two bolts on opposite sides,(just below the guide pins) for some reason the gap on the top of the tranny closes first.(not using any jacks at the time)
the only thing i can think of is... my clutch kit came with 2 bearings, a small one and a larger one, i didnt use the small one because it seemed loose on my input shaft and my input shaft is pitted.
maybe i wasnt supposed to use the larger one???
or maybe the guide pins are too big???
if i only put in the two bolts on opposite sides,(just below the guide pins) for some reason the gap on the top of the tranny closes first.(not using any jacks at the time)
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Adams,MA
Posts: 69

i took out the larger pilot bearing, and installed the smaller one.
the transmission went right on.
as for the exhaust... didnt have any issues. the stock y-pipe fits perfectly.
i found a flywheel off an old 89 ct1500 in the junk yard used the spacer and bolts on that.
the only major problem i have now is.. the only way to get the clutch hydraulic line is to order a master cylinder from a dealership which costs $123.00. i'm waiting for that to run the truck.. i'll post again.
the transmission went right on.
as for the exhaust... didnt have any issues. the stock y-pipe fits perfectly.
i found a flywheel off an old 89 ct1500 in the junk yard used the spacer and bolts on that.
the only major problem i have now is.. the only way to get the clutch hydraulic line is to order a master cylinder from a dealership which costs $123.00. i'm waiting for that to run the truck.. i'll post again.
#9
Starting Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: St Louis
Posts: 196

I did this swap on my 95 240sx. Glad to see there are others out there with the ***** to do the same. Not too many are willing to swap transmissions.
instead of buying that whole thing from GM, why not build your own line? Go to your local speed shop with the master and slave. Tell them how long the line needs to be and they can build it for you with high quality -AN fittings and stainless braided line. I know that will be alot cheaper than buying the whole thing off GM.
instead of buying that whole thing from GM, why not build your own line? Go to your local speed shop with the master and slave. Tell them how long the line needs to be and they can build it for you with high quality -AN fittings and stainless braided line. I know that will be alot cheaper than buying the whole thing off GM.
Last edited by stlwaco; 07-17-2011 at 11:08 PM.
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Adams,MA
Posts: 69

gm stopped making it... i have to go cusom i guess.
i was looking at s10 forums and came across a posting with these part numbers: russell 640281, russell 658190 you can order them from the summit racing web site for around $55.00. it only took two days to get here from ohio with UPS ground. i'll put them on today and let everyone know how it works.
i was looking at s10 forums and came across a posting with these part numbers: russell 640281, russell 658190 you can order them from the summit racing web site for around $55.00. it only took two days to get here from ohio with UPS ground. i'll put them on today and let everyone know how it works.
Last edited by SoullessNihilist; 07-21-2011 at 06:24 AM.




