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Belt squeal, please help!!!

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Old Jan 8, 2015 | 05:27 PM
  #11  
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Might even be the wrong spacer on the alternator, (behind the pulley). 1/32" too thick or too thin, and the belt will be noisy. The "smooth" pulleys don't matter so much for alignment cuz the belt finds the "sweet spot" as soon as the engine starts. The laser tool will pinpoint the problem in a matter of seconds.
 
Old Jan 8, 2015 | 06:43 PM
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I was told by the belt Rep , once you have made it squeal that belt is Efd and it will always squeal

By that age I am betting the pulleys are really polished
I would clean the pulleys with a wire brush and brake clean before installing a new belt
One step farther would be running some 400 grit threw the grooves of the pulley and pulley surfaces and clean with brake clean
 
Old Jan 9, 2015 | 10:08 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by rexazz2
I was told by the belt Rep , once you have made it squeal that belt is Efd and it will always squeal

By that age I am betting the pulleys are really polished
I would clean the pulleys with a wire brush and brake clean before installing a new belt
One step farther would be running some 400 grit threw the grooves of the pulley and pulley surfaces and clean with brake clean
That makes a lot of sense. Definitely will do that, too. I'll have a lot of time tomorrow to work on this so be expecting me to post results tomorrow night.
 
Old Jan 20, 2015 | 10:44 AM
  #14  
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Ok, so school hit pretty hard at the start but I was able to look at it yesterday. Pretty sure it's my air compressor pulley. Turning it by itself, I can hear a faint scraping. Someone else said that my noise when the car is running sounds a lot more like a chirp than a squeal and said it was more than likely a pulley rather than belt slip. I tried the screw driver trick by putting a long screw driving on the compressor and listening but I only heard a whining like would be normal function from a compressor. This is what casts a little doubt on the matter for me. Thoughts?
 
Old Jan 20, 2015 | 11:12 AM
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Buy a gatorback and be done with it, or mess with everything else for a few more weeks then buy a gatorback
 
Old Jan 20, 2015 | 02:11 PM
  #16  
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The scrape noise could be that the clutch clearance is too close, or there is rust on one or both of the surfaces. Try sliding a piece of sand paper between the disc and the coil surface, then turn the pulley by hand to clean it up.
 
Old Jan 23, 2015 | 09:57 PM
  #17  
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Ok. So reason for late response this time: car went in for oil leak diagnosis. Mechanic called me and told me that more urgent things needed my attention and went down to check it out. Front Ball joints are literally about to fall out and upper control arm on passenger side is about to shear. he had it jacked and could literally twist the wheel back and forth like the lug nuts weren't even bolted. refused to let me drive it off his property for liability issues. said he could put it on public road and I can drive it from there if I chose to do so. Basically 1100 at minimum just to make car safe again assuming steering links et al don't need to be fixed not to mention the 6 plus leaks I have (PS pump and lines are leaking, oil filter adapter gasket/seals, engine oil cooler lines, rear main, and valve cover gasket. He gave up and stopped looking for them after valve cover gasket.) With the transmission just being rebuilt a month ago, and now this along with some other issues, it's not even worth it anymore. And since my parents are helping me pay for it while I'm still in college, they say it's time for a new car. So unfortunately, I bid you all a farewell. Loved my blazer
 
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