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2.8 Oil Pan interchangability anyone???

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Old Apr 9, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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Default 2.8 Oil Pan interchangability anyone???

2 wheel drive 2.8, 87. What years are the same or can interchange with this model? I have a fresh motor to install but the old pan is just barely holding together and the donor motor is from a camaro. The Camaro one also looks like trash. Would like to get a good and correct one. I will check with junkyards but have to just a little more info to make sure THEY are right. I hate getting one down there and finding out its the wrong one.
 
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 12:35 AM
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Default RE: 2.8 Oil Pan interchangability anyone???

Had to add this. I seem to see a split in the paperwork at the 86/87 model years, can anyone tell me the reason there seems to be a difference between the 86 and 87 oil pan?
 
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 03:51 PM
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Default RE: 2.8 Oil Pan interchangability anyone???

'87 was the first year of the serpentine belt set up on teh 2.8L V6 engines in the S-series trucks. The serp belt required a few changes, water pump flows in the opposite direction, timing cover is different, and I bet that is why there is a difference in oil pan.

Find a 2wdr oil pan from an older 2.8L v6 (belt drive) and you should be fine. Although it might be just as cost effective to buy a new one. 4wdr will be a different pan. Check out LMC Truck Parts, web search. New pan is like $100.
 
Old Apr 10, 2006 | 05:50 PM
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Default RE: 2.8 Oil Pan interchangability anyone???

Hope thats the case. The odd part is that actually IN THE BLAZER (the 87) is a non serp belt motor (an 86). I might have mentioned that once before somewhere. What I have for a donor is theoretically from an 89 camaro and fully serpentine. Just staring at it doesnt really work, but they LOOK the same. Since one is still running and in use, its hard to tell.

So the best thing to do would be to have one that matches the ENGINE, right? You dont think it was a change for the body or frame, right? They never installed the 4.3 till 89 so I figured it might be an engine change, not a body or frame change that causes the new part.

It'll be a complete rebuild anyway cause I just checked the crank and its not worth saving. So it'll be awhile till I get done. I like to spread out the cost even though its actually cheaper to buy all the parts at once in some sort of kit. i ussually buy only a few items at a time so that I dont get the wrong parts. Here goes another crank and bearing process, man I hate checking them all completely.

Just got the engine ID off the darn thing and will proceed to see what this one really is.
 
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