2003 4x4 s10 crew cab 4.3l 4l60e

So I changed my trans fluid and filter being it would make a belt like squeal if it shifted hard. I put in a transmission cooler but that had been in for over 500 miles. When filling it could not tell the level of the fluid or it was not filling correctly and out in way to much. let it cool and the cold level was up to the spiral part on the dip stick, did not drive more then 20ft that way. Pumped it out by disconnecting the cooler line and took out a vary full 4gt jug. Started to put more in with same result as before and after the over fill.
It will move in reverse just fine but in Drive it barley moves at all, takes way more then the normal amount of pressing the gad peddle. To get it up the bump from gravel to paved in the drive way had to reverse and take a roll to go up it.

Any ideas? could a valve in the valve body be suck or something?
Thanks for the help.

 

If it won't move it is probably low on fluid. First of all never check it cold, ever. Start the car and let it warm up fully. I mean let it run until the thermostat is completely open and the motor is totally warm. Then run it through each gear stopping in each gear for a few seconds from park all the way down to first and back. Once in park again check the fluid while the Blazer is running. If low add a little at a time (like a third of a quart). Keep in mind that your trans is not fully hot because you have not driven it anywhere yet so don't fill it right up yet. Once it is registering nicely on the dipstick go drive it for 30 minutes. Come back and run it through the gears again and check it. Fill it right up if it is down. Run it through the gears and check the level each time you add fluid.

 

Thanks. I am going to totally empty it out and see then fill it and see what that will do.

 

did you get the proper filter for the type of pan you have? deep or shallow

 

^^^ Good question. I wish I thought to ask.

 

Yes I did, i went to the store and got the stuff first and did not even think about looking up how to check before I bought one. But I got the wrong one, only discovered after it was opened up, and went back and got the deep, matched the height with the old to make sure this time at the store.

 

Filled it with the correct amount now, and did more searching and found that it appears to be in limp mode, and no 1st gear but it seems it does have 4th.
update: it will go into 4th but seems it does not lock up the TC, also no coded other then p0016 for the ignition.

 

Fixed, broke a solenoid when putting the pan back on, so replaced both of the rear solenoids and it good. Thank you for the help.

 

Just a quick hint on those changing the transmission filter and gasket for the 4L60e. Undo the two nuts that are on bolts supporting the transfer case which is connected to the tranny. Jack up the transmission by putting a block of wood under the transfer case or use the skid plate if you have one. Raising it that extra 1-2 inches makes all the difference in getting that pan out and back in without breaking the 1-2 shift solenoid. Took me two times to figure that out. Hope this helps someone and saves some effort and $$$.

 

This forum is great for the tips and ideas. I recently added a tranny coolerand flushed the system thanks to tips posted here.

Here's the not so quick and dirty for those of you who want to get the bestlife and performance out of your transmission (automatic)

- put your truck on ramps, it makes things so much easier and block the rearwheels.

- undo the two nuts that support the back of the tranny and jack it up about1 inch.

- siphon out as much tranny fluid from the dipstick hole as possible,usually 1-2 litres

- disconnect the shifter cable from the ball and socket, pull the horse shoeclip and squeeze the tabs on the shifter linkage to disconnect from theretainer on the trans.

- use 13mm socket for all bolts except for 2 linkage bolts, they are 10 mm.

- allow trans fluid to pour out back of pan into flat container, the amountyou siphoned first helps eliminate spillage.

- wiggle pan out, be careful not to damage shift solenoid. Jacking up thetranny gives you much needed room to get out the pan.

- remove filter and old seal. Use tapered 13mm socket from 1/2" drive and extension with new sealover end of socket and hammer it in gently with a bit of tranny fluid forlubrication.

- clean pan and magnet and all surfaces.

- install new gasket and thread bolts up into pan about 2-3 turns intorubber gasket

- install pan carefully, I've broken 2 shift solenoids when I got rammy,take your time

- if bolts bind run a tap up the holes, aluminum is soft and any dirt canmake the bolts bind. spray holes and tap clean with WD40.

- add 5 litres of Dexron III, if all you're doing is the filter and gasket, you're done.



Trans Cooler:

Cooler lines run to passenger side of radiator. Top fitting is the returnline to disconnect.

- remove front grill by pushing down on top 2 clips, once loose grab grillat ends and pull out carefully. Disconnect 2 lights connected to grill.

- install tranny cooler on passenger side using metal bars in kit, drillinto metal and use centre brace for one side, hole already there.

- disconnect return line on radiator using backup wrench on solderedconnection.

- thread in new fitting from cooler kit to rad threaded hole and attachrubber line from kit.

- I had another rubber hose from another tranny kit so attached it to theexposed nipple on the factory return line. Undo the clip and remove the maleend first.

- run both hoses down beside the cooling shroud.

- remove the bottom plastic guard on the engine compartment first foraccess.

- I drilled two holes in the plastic under the bumper (not the plastic guardyou take off) to allow the lines to come back up to connect to the trans cooler.Install the cooler with nipples down. Cooler flow can be either way.

- only connect the rubber tube from the factory tranny line at this point,keep the new rubber line from the top rad connection open.

- attach a clear poly line to the rubber hose from the radiator fitting lineand run into a large semi transparent jug. You may need two of these jugs. Markthem in 1 liter increments so you know how much fluid has come out. I usedempty 10 litre jugs from RV antifreeze dried out.

- the tranny cooler adds about 1 litre so add that into the dipstick holenow so you don’t forget.

- I used 13 litres in total to fill and flush and had to add back 2.2 litresto bring level up. I must have lost track or slipped up somewhere.

- have a helper start your motor and the trans oil will start to flow intothe jug

- at the same time add in new tranny oil.

- try to add in the same amount as is coming out to keep pump full.

- have a helper to stop and start motor when needed, or use your remotestart if you have one.

- put in and collect 7 litres, you have already added in 6 new at the start.

- disconnect clear tube and connect flushing line to new tranny cooler.

- back truck off ramps so it's level.

- check tranny oil level and add as needed, or siphon if too much.

- let engine and tranny warm up for 15 min and recheck.

- once level is showing on dipstick (cold) take for a drive to warm it upfully - 10-15 miles

- park and keep engine running - check oil level and add as necessary.

- check for leaks on pan and hose connections.

- install lights on grill and then install grill.

- dispose of old oil in an environmentally safe way - take back to store.

- check for leaks and level as you do your daily drives for a week or so.

Hope this helps those thinking of doing this. Fluid was really clean afterabout 10 litres had gone though so I saved the last 3 litres that wentthrough and kept for adding later if needed. Should save you $100 or so andthen you know it was done right. If I’ve missed anything please feel free toadd.