As long as the hoses/injectors are plumbed to the correct cylinders it should be ok. Sounds like what you have.

 

Pull a couple spark plugs and see if they are wet or dry.

Have you tried to keep dribbling carb cleaner into the throttle body to keep it running once it starts on carb cleaner with the fuel pump relay out? You should be able to adjust the rate of spray to keep it running smoothly. Can you get someone to video what it is doing?

 

No i pretty much blasted it with carb clean and probably flooded it. But I will go through it again and check for wetness. Then I'll set up the phone to get some video.

Heres a question, after I had replaced nearly every sensor and was left in the dark with what to do next, i checked for codes and found a new one that had not been there. Code P0118 and that reminded me of the coolant temp sensor. I broke the housing reaching down trying to get to a plug.

So I replaced it and scanned for codes again and the same p0118 came up. So I cleared codes and scanned again. No codes found on on torque pro but the engine light was still on the dash and i haven't been able to see them or clear them from the dash.

 

The SES light will stay on until the engine is running so nothing to tell with it right now. If you are concerned about the P0118 being fixed, just turn the key on and display the coolant temp with your scanner. If it is at a reasonable temp, then no problem exists anymore. Looking forward to the video. Typically put on YouTube with link in the post.

 

​​​​​​I pulled all 6 plugs this time and all but #5 were dry. #5 was only slightly moist without much carbon.

#2 and #4 were unremarkable while #1, 3 and 6 where black

I could not get it to start with carb cleaner. I checked for spark at coil and #1 boot.
Coil was strong plug wire was not. I am ordering a new cap and rotor now. Im Considering buying the distributor but id rather not.

Im also considering purchasing a pulse injector test from Amazon unless its not necessary.

Do i need a special funnel to remove air from the radiator?

Also i pulled codes and p0122 and p0102 popped up. I have already changed the throttle position sensor and tested its accuracy. I also cleaned the mass air senseor with mass air spray.

 

FWIW, I just replaced my distributor and I got three consecutive bad distributors. In the end, I took the ECM off of my old one and put it on the third, new rebuilt one for the win. I have never done anything extra to burp the air out of my cooling system. Yes, it takes a while to get it all out but I never had any problems with that. As for the rest, Les has you covered way better than I could.

 

Thought the tabs on the body (for cap hold down) of your original distributor were broken off and that was the reason for buying the distributor.

Sure, a pulse tester for the injectors would be great for testing the spider - but what is the pressure drop spec for the Blazer and how do you plan to hook it in electrically? Those are the biggest questions.

I have had good luck with jacking up the front with a floor jack and then just keep trickling in until it stops completely. Then watch the catch tank level for a while.

Are you sure you didn't turn the key on with the TPS and MAF unplugged? If not then clear codes and see if they come back (plugged in of course).

Please advise

 

Yes the there's nothing to secure the cap to the distributor. I just purchased the distributor kit you recommended it should be here Monday.

I see what you mean about the pulse tester. I have the GM service information manual and its more complicating than buying a $25 tester from Amazon.

Both the MAP and TP sensor were plugged in. I assume though that the MAP will give a different reading while the air tube is off the throttle body? And I stripped back some insulation off the TPS because I didn't have a good back probe tool. I will cover up or splice the wires back with shrink wrap connectors.

Is there anything i can check for while waiting for the distributor? How about intermittent electrical issues. I don't understand why it will start fine one moment and play dead the next. Although an unsecured distributor cap can cause that.

 

Yed sir, thank you. I just ordered a distributor kit i hope I don't have the same trouble. Most everything I read on forums, especially in concerns about the Blazer, says to use OEM parts. But im on a monthly disability income.

A few years ago i needed a new fuel pump but they were over $200. So i bought a $16 pump and installed it into the old housing. I had to make a small modification but it worked fine aside from the sending unit was off a little.

 

Clear the P0102 and P0122 codes and see if they come back with the sensors plugged in and KOEO. If so, we will need to concentrate on them. I'll post the conditions that it takes for those codes to set