No it would not start if it was 180 out of time. It looks dead on and if it starts easy when hot it probably is. You can put it in and then rotater the motor around 2 times to get back to the mark. If your on the mark anf your balancer is on the mark its not the timing.

Have you looked at the gear on the dist is it worn? Have you checked plug wires? A spray bottle with water will check those.

 

OK, I think I have a fix for my problem
I did the distributor one more time, and it comes in the same way i took it out, so that can't be my problem.

Last night I went outside, took the blazer for a short run, and opened the hood when I got back. I could see some ARCING! Shouted out for my wife to get a squirt bottle, and with only a light mist it was like new years eve down there!
As far as I could see there were at least 3 or 4 wires arcing.

Some tell me that with a water mist there would be some arcing no matter what, other say that there sall be NO arcing. What's the truth to that?

As I still have some store credit left at rock auto, I ordered the most expensive AcDelco wire set I could find. Will arrive next week, and I hope that fixes it!

But this can't be a new problem, I have tested and inspected the wires before, I couldn't find anything wrong with them, but the problem has been there for some time. But when I see the engien room light up at the same time as the engine stumbles, I'm sure this is it!

 

Yes there should be 0 arching IMO. Blazers are know for high output ignition systems ad plug wire failures. It will defiantly help if it is not your problem.

 

And to add to my posible solution my battery is toast!
With the engine running there is 14.4 volts at the battery, with the engine off my battery drains with only the door open and cabin lights on for 5 minutes. Door closed the battery last "forever"!
The little lamp inside the battery is blue and indicates that the battery is fine and charged, but there is not enough power to start the engine up. If the battery was empty enough to not start the engine, that little light should have been white. That never happens. 10 minutes with a charger the battery will take no more charge and starts the engine right up.

 

Possible but a bad battery shouldn't matter it runs off the alternator so once its running essentially the battery is out of the picture.

 

I watched a video by Scotty Kilmer on youtube just now, he diagnosed a misfire to be a bad battery. It had enough power to start the car, but not functioning well enough to keep the engine performing. With the battery charged and no drain, I feel that the engine runs better.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyvdWeyDHf4

I also found this:
"YES YES YES all the no answers to this question are from people who are living in the past.
A computer controled vehicle needs a good battery for maximum performance.
If your battery has low voltage and / or will not take a charge this will rob voltage from needed system components.
Batteries in current production vehicles help in maintaining engine perforformance as well as the primary function of starting the vehicle.
A lot of components draw power directly from the battery connection and NOT from the alternator.
The old days of diagnosing a bad alternator /regulator by removing the neg. battery cable are gone.
This action will cause certain system failures because of the way newer vehicles are wired and false diagnosis.
The answer is YES a good and fully charged battery is needed for maximum engine performance.
The battery is where all the electrical power needed to properly run your vehicle comes from.
The alternator is meant to MAINTAIN a battery, not to CHARGE it from a dead state
Low voltage and amperage also hurts fuel pump performance and ignition power "

 

Lol so buy a new battery and some new plug wires.

 

Scotty Kilmer forgot to mention a leaky or bad fuel pressure regulator can cause a misfire too because the fuel pressure is lower now from the leaky regulator.

 

Almost the entire fuel system is replaced, new pump, CPI with new wiring harness, FPR, fuel filter. Fuel pressure are now good, and not a problem.

New wires and battery goes in tomorrow


It's on its way

 

While your at it check the ground cable on the back of the block to the engine harness for corosion, there was a gm bulletin on that causing misfires and misfire codes.
Also check the vents on the bottom of the distributor to makes sure they are not plugged and ionized air within the distributor can make the spark arc to the wrong plug. Another bulletin.

With that, there should be no arcing even in wet conditions with good wires. I would start there for sure.

just my 2c.

btw, just changed my cap last night due to it arcing internally from cyl 4 to 5. Are you getting misfire codes?