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Drivers side moter mount keeps breaking.

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Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:33 PM
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Default Drivers side moter mount keeps breaking.

Im getting sick of replacing it & I would really like to know what you are all doing to prevent this from happening?

I mean, what can I do? Can I run a poly mount on just the drivers side mount? I really dont see anywhere to set up a torque strap.

These mounts must just be crap because I have not even been off roading besides climbing some hills & street cruising in the blizzards. I personally have torn 3 of them right in half some how & the original was torn also. Both the other motor mount & tranny mount are new too, but they are fine
 

Last edited by jsmz; Apr 7, 2010 at 09:38 PM.
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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Chain the engine down. Pretty simple and effective.
 
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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I know right & ive done it before on old beaters we used to rock, but I dont really see a good place.

There is a good stud sicking out of the block on the front lower drivers side , but really no where on the frame. Its pretty tight spot right there with the steering gear/ steering coupler/ shaft & all that crap in between.

I mean, Ive got a piece of chain & a can of under coating to spray on it right here. Im totally down with whatever.
 

Last edited by jsmz; Apr 7, 2010 at 09:55 PM.
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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Do yourself a favor buy the poly mounts from Auto Zone they cost about $40 each side, but Money Well spent, Last Set you will have to buy and put on. Hope this Help? T.J.
 
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:01 PM
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Not really lookin to replace all of the mounts again. Just the drivers side one.
Passenger side & transmission mount are fine & have less than 6,000 miles on them.

Also not really looking for the harshness & vibrations that come with a full poly mount set.

I would not mind putting just one poly mount in on the driver side. Does anyone know if that would present a problem? Ive read conflicting things about mix & match with poly & rubber mounts.
 
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AJBert
Chain the engine down. Pretty simple and effective.

i had to do this on my '92 & one of my '84's.

i'm gonna be doing the same thing to my '98 next weekend, since i've gone through a second mount already.

i just used a 1/2" eye bolt (welded shut), and drilled a 1/2" diameter hole through the frame, right beside the front of the block (between the front of the block & the bracket). bolted in the eye bolt, ran a length of 1/2" chain up to the back of the alternator, and attached it with a large bolt & a couple of washers.

i'm going to use a turnbuckle on the '98 though, it'll make it sooooo much easier to get the right tension.
 
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:34 PM
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i found a how to for the turn buckle style on zr2 usa. I think thats what im going to do.

http://www.zr2usa.com/mboard/index.p...readed&start=#
 
Old Apr 7, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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Yep, that is true you will get the harshness & vibrations that come with a full poly mount set. I have them on my 2000 GMC Jimmy and Wife has made note of it to me. But Hey, I can live with it so as I do not Have to change another motor mount on the Engine . Let Us no what you decide to do in this Matter? Good Luck
 
Old Apr 8, 2010 | 09:16 PM
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Yep, I ended up replacing the mount under warranty & making my own version of the turn buckle setup. in my excitement i didnt take a pic of it before i put it in but its heavy duty enough. the turnbuckle is rated for 500lbs & i used standard grade 1/2 inch bolts, nuts & washers with blue thread lock.

I recommend a turnbuckle setup because you have the ability to adjust it on the go & pre load the mount *just right* so there is no movement with no vibration.

overall im really pleased with this. really good throttle response, & i bet my gas mileage improves also. well worth the $14 i spent on the hardware.
 

Last edited by jsmz; Apr 8, 2010 at 09:18 PM.
Old Apr 8, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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Ok , Good Deal, Thanks for the Info. T.J.
 
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