I just got done with a test drive on my 1998 (4 door, 4 wheel drive LT) after having my front suspension rebuilt (both front wheel bearings CV joints, and sway bar ends), as well as replacing the front and rear pinion seals and the transfer case seal, and both front brake lines (about $2,000 in total), but now after my 120-130 mile round trip test drive I have a BAD engine knock. I’ll have to take it to the mechanic tomorrow but I’m trying to come up with a worse case scenario, if my engine is toast and I have to have it rebuilt, about how much would I be looking at? Bearing in mind that I am NOT mechanically inclined and will be having 100% of the work done by the mechanic.

More optimistically, other than the very obvious rattle sound coming from the engine, it does run perfectly fine, so assuming the engine is not blown, what do you think it could be, and how much would it cost to fix?

 

In my opinion, if you're not doing the work yourself and having to pay someone else to do it, for what it would cost in both parts and labor, to rebuild an engine with a rod knock, you might as well try and find a used engine to replace it with, or maybe even pay a little more for an already remanufactured one that would have a good warranty.

Try to break it down like this:

- Lets say you have FULL confendence in your mechanic to rebuilt the engine and do it RIGHT. Going that route, you're going to be paying labor to have the engine pulled, rebuilt, reinstalled, as well as the cost for the engine overhaul rebuild kit (a decent gasket kit alone usually runs around $100, but a full rebuild kit with all the bearings is probably going to costs double that). So lets say that (and I'm pulling these labor charges out of my rear, because every mechanic and shop is going to charge different rates, I've always done my own work so I honestly have NO idea lol), $500 for the labor to pull and install the motor, $200 to rebuild the motor, and then you tack another $200 for the rebuild kit, throw in another $100 for all the little misc things that are always needed like oil, antifreeze, spark plugs, so on and so forth, let's say you're looking at ~$1000 for that job. You'll also be setteling for whatever warranty (if any) the mechanic gives on his engine rebuild.

- Lets say you buy a used motor from a salvage yard for your mechanic to install. You'll still be paying that $500 for the engine pull and install labor, but you'll be paying a little more for the replacement engine up front. Depending on where you get it from, the mileage on the engine, and it warranty level options are given, you could be looking at an entire replacement engine anywhere from $400-$1000. That price is going to vary on availability in your area. But let's say best case scenario, ~$400. You'll still need those ~$100 of odds and ends to install the motor, maybe a little more if you want some other things done to freshen up the motor before it's installed like some easier to get to gaskets while the engine is out (intake, valve covers, oil pan, rear main, front main, etc), so lets go as far as taking that $100 more and turning it into $200 more, you're looking at about $1100. So you're still looking at close to the same price as just rebuilding the original engine, but getting the engine complete from a reputable establishment that stands behind there products means you should get a half way decent warranty with it, and if there's an issue with the engine then it shouldn't be hard to get a replacement.

- Best option for long term if you plan on keeping the Blazer would be to install a fully remanufactured engine. Going to cost the most for sure, the engine itself could cost anywhere from $1000 to $2000 alone depending on where you get it from. But it's going to have all new components inside, all new gaskets, and is going to have the best warranty options.

 

When mine developed a knock, I opted for a remanufactured Goodwrench engine because it had the best warranty. I paid about $2800 for the engine and did the labor myself. But I think book time on the engine R&R is about 15hrs. So, if your mechanic charges $100/hr., well you get the idea.

BTW, the problem with mine was excessive crankshaft end play (like 1/8"), but I never tore it down to see why.

 

Keep in mind, that an engine rebuild with a "bad knock" suggests a rod bearing or worse.
A 2'800$ rebuilt engine with warranty sounds the best option to me. Those companies like Goodwrench do them by the dozens and can manufacture in series which brings the cost down. If rebuilding your own engine at a good machine shop will cost you more.

Depending on what had let go it will include - at the lower end:

disassembly
hot tank
crack checking
checking for specs on all parts
most probably (if rod knock) grind the crankshaft
new engine bearings
at the very least a hone and new piston rings

At the cylinder heads

disassemble
hot tank
check for cracking
check all valves and guides to be within spec
valve job

A good machine shop will most probably tell you that they cannot quote the work unless they have disassembled and hot-tanked the engine. After taking all the measurements and having had a look at the crankshaft one can tell what will be needed on parts and labour. You have to discuss with the shop what the goal is, on how to proceed and what the involved costs are.

This article sums it up nicely.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/budget-engine-build/

rebuild or build involves very much the same operation on the engine just with different specifications. The advice given is to check the shop first, establish a relation and talk to them about how it works and what each step will cost you. For the "build" you can check my own thread in my signature. This is an all-out engine build with aftermarket and high-performance parts, very high budget but it shows you all the steps and what we are talking about.

Probably the best advices is TomA's with a rebuilt engine from a reputable source.

 

Like Mod said..

that is NOT a mechanics rebuild. Thats a machine shop job.

That bad knock probably didnt just happen and there will be damage to the crank and/ or rods.

And other things if it ran out of oil.

You will have thrown more money away on parts and labor including the 2200 already than another truck.

Then if it's been abused to the point of engine death rattle, the drivetrain is questionable. It won't have bern maintained either. 2000 for a reman trans.

Either learn how to change an engine or get another truck.

I have a new GM remanufactured long block and all the parts that go with it a exc. Manifolds.

 

Slight update, I went out and started it tonight, the sound is even worse, the knock is loud and there is an occasional clattering noise and the knocking is ocompanied by a squeeking sound.

I don’t see the belt bouncing around but could the squeek indicated that maybe the noise is just a broken belt tensioner?

 

Take off the belt and start it. That will eliminate all the accessories.

 

I play around with classic sports cars. Older than the Blazers for sure but these Blazers are reaching the "classic vehicle" stage. Eventually maintaining them becomes a labor of love. Some guys love restoring them. They will put $10-$15k into a frame up restoration on a British sports car that takes 2 years to complete and at the end have a vehicle worth $8,000.

The "best" answer is a $2800 reman motor and $1500 for someone to do the engine swap. But you gotta decide if having a 20-30 year old vehicle is worth that. Another option is to have the old one hauled away and probably clear $3-400 add the $4200 from option A and go looking for a $4500 replacement. As Daveca said if you don't have the ability to do the work yourself keeping a really old vehicle going is really expensive.

Sports car guys run into this all the time. They get "mad" that some guy wants to charge $800 to change a $40 alternator which discounts the fact that a "working" mechanic has a family to feed and rent to pay. These poor fellows often get encouraged to go buy a Miata.

Ultimately S10 Blazer becomes a hobby and any enthusiast is gonna need to have deep pockets or mechanical skills.

 

Well said! You can get a GM Goodwrench remanufactured 4.3 for right around $2200.00. But with labor to install it tacked on, the repair quickly exceeds the typical value of the vehicle. More importantly, the value to insurance companies if you are hit and totalled is no more if you have a new engine in it - they just don't care. That is my biggest fear. My 2001 LT is a true creampuff and had new engine and trans 40K miles ago, but it's just another $3000 Blazer to the insurance companies if it gets hit. It has been hit 4 times by others (not our fault), each time less than 3K but more than 2k - so it was fixed. But what if....... Something to think about.

 

I just went back and checked my records and I actually paid a lot less than I remebered for my engine. It was just under $2000, including shipping. Much better than the $2800 I remembered.

As for the insurance thing, I just try not to think about it. But it's always in the back of my mind that somebody is going to hit me and total it, and their insurance is going to try to pay me $1200 or whatever the Blue Book value is on it.