Engine removal 4.3L automatic 4x4
 

What's the easiest way to remove the engine on a 98 Chevy Blazer 4.3L auto 4x4?

it's not hard, and i did it by myself ('94 S10 pu 4x4)in a drive way so here is the procedure.Step one: go to your local or favorite autoparts store and get yourself a HAYNES or a CHILTONS manual or both and cross reference. follow the step by step directions and I promise you will have no problems at all or at least you shouldn't. it's really easy and both volumes will even give you pictures and tips to help you along good luck and have fun

I don't need a manual I'm having a problem taking out the bell housing bolts at the back of engine near the fire wall which you can only feel. Should I just drop the sub-frame or what can anyone suggest anything else that is easier to do?

undo the body mounts up front and under the cab, that will allow for more room to get to those bolts plus make engine removal easier.

Take out the tranny cross member allowing the engine/tranny to be on an angle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t/DSCN1614.jpg

ya easiest way is to drop tranny an get an angle attachment with an extension

Your solution is ideal but that didn't work on my 95. The 4WD gearbox hits a welded frame member on the back. Everyone told me that I'd have to remove the gearbox in order to gain enough clearance to tilt down the Trans.

I was worried removal of the gearbox would create new problems so I found a third option which didn't bother me so much to do on my old, high mileage vehicle...

https://blazerforum.com/forum/article-submissions-discussions-47/how-clearance-flywheel-removal-95-4wd-39921/

when i pulled my engine i removed the top three bolts with a boxed end wrench, then removed the motor mounts and that gave me more then enough room to get the bolts on the side of the bellhousing. the biggest b*tch is trying to get the engine itself to seperate from the bellhousing...

:icon_wink: I do the same thing

yeah, i read that thread, and had some thoughts about it.

top three bolts???

they're grouped in pairs.
and how does removing the motor mounts (which is a RPITA initself) make it any easier-or less work- compared to dropping the t-case to gain access?

i don't know, maybe it's me, but it seems like sometimes there are a few members that go beyond their means, to make it a more difficult process than necessary.

i take out the top 2 bolts from under the hood and the next 2 down with a wrench, Then the rest with a 14mm socket. i leave the trans in the stock location, y pipe on the cat, driveshafts everything. im in the middle of doing 1 right now dropping in the new motor in about a hour. under the truck there are 2 little tin heat shields on the p/s d/s i rip those off and it gives you all the room you need for those bolts This has worked for me a bunch of times

I have a 1998 blazer I would like to know how to remove the engine since the bolt are close to firewall there is no room :icon_doh:

Im wrong there is only 2 bolts on the top of the bellhousing on these trucks... its the LS1 bellhousings that have an extra bolt in the center. either way, I found it easiest to remove those bolts from the top and then get the bolts on the side with a few long extensions. there was one bolt i couldn't really get at with an extension on the driver side, so i pulled the motor mount (had to come out anyways). That lowered the engine enough to gain access. I didn't touch the transmission cross member or t-case anything.

I didnt think i was making any extra work for myself...
http://http://img.photobucket.com/al...300/741c_1.jpg

On my 95 blazer I lifted the body and could get access to the top two bolts from the sides (remove wheel well liner). Broke them loose with a box end wrench then got a ratcheting box end on to complete removal.

At first I was intimidated at the body lift but it turned out to not be too difficult. Remove all the body mounting bolts except the rear two and loosen those two up. Put an hydraulic jack next to the body mounts just to the rear of the wheel wells and lift away. I got more than 4 inches of lift which was relatively roomy (i.e. not impossibly close) for removing those bolts. Had to disconnect the front bumper mounts so that the front could lift further.

I never tried the "drop the trans" answer. Maybe that's actually easier but this wasn't too bad-- mostly delayed by attempting to get by without disconnecting all the body mounts.

I am sure the original poster has finished this by now but who knows who else is looking at this problem.

I just did my 2000 blazer rebuild as well, personally I know how the tranny bell bolts suck. I cut a 2 inch hole in my floor board, removed the bolt and pop riveted a new piece of sheet metal over the hole, sealed with foam to make sure no leaks, way easier!!!