Engine removal 4.3L automatic 4x4
 

What's the easiest way to remove the engine on a 98 Chevy Blazer 4.3L auto 4x4?

it's not hard, and i did it by myself ('94 S10 pu 4x4)in a drive way so here is the procedure.Step one: go to your local or favorite autoparts store and get yourself a HAYNES or a CHILTONS manual or both and cross reference. follow the step by step directions and I promise you will have no problems at all or at least you shouldn't. it's really easy and both volumes will even give you pictures and tips to help you along good luck and have fun

I don't need a manual I'm having a problem taking out the bell housing bolts at the back of engine near the fire wall which you can only feel. Should I just drop the sub-frame or what can anyone suggest anything else that is easier to do?

undo the body mounts up front and under the cab, that will allow for more room to get to those bolts plus make engine removal easier.

Take out the tranny cross member allowing the engine/tranny to be on an angle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...t/DSCN1614.jpg

ya easiest way is to drop tranny an get an angle attachment with an extension

Your solution is ideal but that didn't work on my 95. The 4WD gearbox hits a welded frame member on the back. Everyone told me that I'd have to remove the gearbox in order to gain enough clearance to tilt down the Trans.

I was worried removal of the gearbox would create new problems so I found a third option which didn't bother me so much to do on my old, high mileage vehicle...

https://blazerforum.com/forum/article-submissions-discussions-47/how-clearance-flywheel-removal-95-4wd-39921/

when i pulled my engine i removed the top three bolts with a boxed end wrench, then removed the motor mounts and that gave me more then enough room to get the bolts on the side of the bellhousing. the biggest b*tch is trying to get the engine itself to seperate from the bellhousing...

:icon_wink: I do the same thing

yeah, i read that thread, and had some thoughts about it.

top three bolts???

they're grouped in pairs.
and how does removing the motor mounts (which is a RPITA initself) make it any easier-or less work- compared to dropping the t-case to gain access?

i don't know, maybe it's me, but it seems like sometimes there are a few members that go beyond their means, to make it a more difficult process than necessary.