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Engine turns to slow to start, new starter , new battery

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Old Nov 3, 2024 | 02:40 AM
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Default Engine turns to slow to start, new starter , new battery

Hey guys I am having issues with my 99 Blazer it has the Vortec v6 but I'm pretty sure all 99's had that.
So my problem is that I recently had a blown head gasket, I fixed that and it ran fine for a while but then started running very rough and having random cylinder misfires, I looked it up and it seems that the fuel injectors were the issue, I ordered new ones and when they arrived they were not the Vortec style and would not fit so I decided to clean the old ones and move on, before I did howerver I thought my starter went out because it would barely turn over, not fast enough to start, so I replaced the Starrer and I upgraded my battery to one with more cold cranking amps, the problem still persists, I went ahead and changed the old injectors out gave them an ultrasonic cleaning and replaced them, not it still is not turning over well but it dumped a massive amount of fuel into the oil after pressurizing the system, I am at a loss on the engine not turning over it feels like it is seized but I can turn it no problem by hand, I pulled all the plugs and one had fuen in it, a lot of fuel in it, I drained the oil and went ahead and replaced the injectors with the proper Vortec type but it is still not turning over, any ideas would be great I do not want to just throw money at it, if the engine is gone I will just move on to buying something else but I would like to know if anyone has had this issue before?
 

Last edited by Shawn66; Nov 3, 2024 at 02:43 AM.
Old Nov 3, 2024 | 10:25 AM
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Get a meter on the battery posts and tell me what the resting voltage is and the voltage when you attempt to crank.

Then repeat on the big battery cable post on the starter using a good clean frame ground.

Can you easily rotate the engine through two complete revolutions by hand?

You need to perform the fuel pressure leak down test in the sticky.

George
 
Old Nov 3, 2024 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Get a meter on the battery posts and tell me what the resting voltage is and the voltage when you attempt to crank.

Then repeat on the big battery cable post on the starter using a good clean frame ground.

Can you easily rotate the engine through two complete revolutions by hand?

You need to perform the fuel pressure leak down test in the sticky.

George
were having thunderstorms today and the next few I will let you know asap thanks for the quick reply
 
Old Nov 4, 2024 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Get a meter on the battery posts and tell me what the resting voltage is and the voltage when you attempt to crank.

Then repeat on the big battery cable post on the starter using a good clean frame ground.

Can you easily rotate the engine through two complete revolutions by hand?

You need to perform the fuel pressure leak down test in the sticky.

George
ok so I got to test the battery at rest it is at 12.7 volts it's brand new so it was no surprise when my wife tried to start it it dropped to 5.5 volts I have not had a chance to test at the starter because it's pure mud underneath at the moment if I put a socket on the crank I can freely turn the engine it's pretty tight but it turns with a little effort I pulled the plugs and #6 had quite a bit of fuel coming out the others have traces of fuel on the plugs but 6 actually had fuel in the cylinder , I am thinking I may have a stuck valve on 6 and a bad cable does that sound right?
 
Old Nov 4, 2024 | 03:34 PM
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Without those voltages at the starter I dont have the complete picture but if that is a new battery and not defective then the starter is most likely drawing hundreds of amps given a 7 volt drop. If you have a DC amp clamp meter please confirm. If the starter is not defective then the engine is locked up. If the engine is locked up it can be hydrolock (water or gas in the cylinders) causing inability to compress those cylinder(s). If you have that much gas in a cylinder(s) then the spider is likely defective and there should be rapid fuel pressure leakdown during a test. If its not hydrolock then it could be any number of mechanical issues including a bent or dropped valve, jumped timing, broken timing chain, etc. A bad battery cable is not likely causing all of this.

George
 
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