Fresh Rebuild 1996
#31
Ok, so I loosened it and tried to move it as much as factory would allow, cmp went up to 19....
So do you think I should try and move it another tooth, slot the bolt hole ( dunno if that's gonna give me enough?), or make/get a Chevy distributor hold down????
So do you think I should try and move it another tooth, slot the bolt hole ( dunno if that's gonna give me enough?), or make/get a Chevy distributor hold down????
Last edited by LesMyer; 04-11-2019 at 10:18 PM.
#32
Or you could move it a tooth and leave it on neg 8. Would be better than what a lot of people are running with.
Last edited by LesMyer; 04-11-2019 at 10:23 PM.
#33
Ok, I can't thank you enough for that scanner info!
Here's what I made, but wife wanted me to wait till this weekend to mess with it cause it's running now. She has caught on how when u mess with a car there's always that chance that it can get more complicated than what u "plan" to do lol.
Here's a pic of what I did
Here's what I made, but wife wanted me to wait till this weekend to mess with it cause it's running now. She has caught on how when u mess with a car there's always that chance that it can get more complicated than what u "plan" to do lol.
Here's a pic of what I did
#35
I had to bend the tips down to get it to grip,
For future reference do that b4 u cut it lol
ok got it down to 6 @2k rpm's
its idling at about 550, hasnt died on me yet but i get nervous sometimes lol
im not sure i could get it better cause im worried about putting it in a bind? We had it hit 0, but no matter when we tighten it then it goes back to 6
is 6 acceptable???? how acceptable??
i did notice wear on the drive gear, but no worse than the old distributor.
i also have replaced the cap and rotor
ignition wise everything is less than a year old easy
For future reference do that b4 u cut it lol
ok got it down to 6 @2k rpm's
its idling at about 550, hasnt died on me yet but i get nervous sometimes lol
im not sure i could get it better cause im worried about putting it in a bind? We had it hit 0, but no matter when we tighten it then it goes back to 6
is 6 acceptable???? how acceptable??
i did notice wear on the drive gear, but no worse than the old distributor.
i also have replaced the cap and rotor
ignition wise everything is less than a year old easy
Last edited by nemesisinfinity; 04-14-2019 at 01:16 AM.
#38
Might be that distributor gear. Mine changes less than 2 degrees at all times warm/cold/idle/at speed (this was with a new distributor). But you could split whatever your (cam sensor retard) range is around zero and deal with things later if any problem remains or any problems develop. How much does it vary? 6 degrees max?
#39
OK I got it down to where it's 0 at 2k
And only varies by less than 1
I'll watch it and check to see if it shifts
I got it and drove around some more and called it good
Since the original problem is solved I can make another thread about the o2/lean/high trim
Ordeal of need be.
I've got the error for sensor 1 and 3 co2 heater being bad, no SES light yet though
Also gotta track down my fuel tank ground
High voltage from level sensor
I notice that it has an ocasional "cutout" when I go from a stop to mid throttle for maybe a split second.
I made a bunch of logs but haven't done anything with them
High trim % means it's running lean or rich???
And only varies by less than 1
I'll watch it and check to see if it shifts
I got it and drove around some more and called it good
Since the original problem is solved I can make another thread about the o2/lean/high trim
Ordeal of need be.
I've got the error for sensor 1 and 3 co2 heater being bad, no SES light yet though
Also gotta track down my fuel tank ground
High voltage from level sensor
I notice that it has an ocasional "cutout" when I go from a stop to mid throttle for maybe a split second.
I made a bunch of logs but haven't done anything with them
High trim % means it's running lean or rich???
#40
OK I got it down to where it's 0 at 2k
And only varies by less than 1
I'll watch it and check to see if it shifts
I got it and drove around some more and called it good
Since the original problem is solved I can make another thread about the o2/lean/high trim
Ordeal of need be.
I've got the error for sensor 1 and 3 co2 heater being bad, no SES light yet though
Also gotta track down my fuel tank ground
High voltage from level sensor
I notice that it has an ocasional "cutout" when I go from a stop to mid throttle for maybe a split second.
I made a bunch of logs but haven't done anything with them
High trim % means it's running lean or rich???
And only varies by less than 1
I'll watch it and check to see if it shifts
I got it and drove around some more and called it good
Since the original problem is solved I can make another thread about the o2/lean/high trim
Ordeal of need be.
I've got the error for sensor 1 and 3 co2 heater being bad, no SES light yet though
Also gotta track down my fuel tank ground
High voltage from level sensor
I notice that it has an ocasional "cutout" when I go from a stop to mid throttle for maybe a split second.
I made a bunch of logs but haven't done anything with them
High trim % means it's running lean or rich???
Actually I think there is some value in keeping the same thread so readers can get the entire picture of what has been done. But you can do what you like if you want to start a new thread. Lots of people seem to start a new thread for everything.
High trim % means the PCM is adding fuel to the standard calibration from the factory, in order to give the correct mixture as determined by the O2 sensor. If the SES light is not on, then it has been successful. For example, a small vacuum leak would give a higher than normal positive fuel trim at idle and the problem would lessen as RPM goes up.. A dribbling injector would give a negative fuel trim. An O2 sensor problem could go either way. But during normal operation, Long Term Fuel Trim and Short Term Fuel Trim should add up to less than 10.
Let's talk about the O2 sensor heater error that you mentioned. How are you detecting that? How is it manifesting?
I'm curious if you ever got Car Gauge Pro for your wife's ABS problem, and if it works in generic mode on your Blazer? Don't worry, we can work on your Blazer with Dash Command. I'm just curious.
Last edited by LesMyer; 04-15-2019 at 08:12 AM.