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Fresh Rebuild 1996

  #31  
Old 04-11-2019, 07:05 PM
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Ok, so I loosened it and tried to move it as much as factory would allow, cmp went up to 19....
So do you think I should try and move it another tooth, slot the bolt hole ( dunno if that's gonna give me enough?), or make/get a Chevy distributor hold down????
 

Last edited by LesMyer; 04-11-2019 at 10:18 PM.
  #32  
Old 04-11-2019, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nemesisinfinity View Post
Ok, so I loosened it and tried to move it as much as factory would allow, cmp went up to 19....
So do you think I should try and move it another tooth, slot the bolt hole ( dunno if that's gonna give me enough?), or make/get a Chevy distributor hold down????
13 teeth so 360/13=27.7 degrees per tooth. I'm guessing it would go to neg 8 by moving it 1 tooth, which is probably where it really should be falling with the factory hold down. Probably should do the adjustable hold down to get to zero since you now have the equipment to set CMP retard. First you might want to check your distributor gear for wear by checking slop in the position of the rotor. Does it have new timing chain? Any slop or chain stretch or wear adds up to negative CMP retard in relationship to the crank sensor. See how that works?

Or you could move it a tooth and leave it on neg 8. Would be better than what a lot of people are running with.
 

Last edited by LesMyer; 04-11-2019 at 10:23 PM.
  #33  
Old 04-12-2019, 02:10 PM
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Ok, I can't thank you enough for that scanner info!
Here's what I made, but wife wanted me to wait till this weekend to mess with it cause it's running now. She has caught on how when u mess with a car there's always that chance that it can get more complicated than what u "plan" to do lol.
Here's a pic of what I did
 
  #34  
Old 04-12-2019, 04:11 PM
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As long as it locks it down that will be great. Good job!
 
  #35  
Old 04-13-2019, 06:31 PM
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I had to bend the tips down to get it to grip,
For future reference do that b4 u cut it lol

ok got it down to 6 @2k rpm's
its idling at about 550, hasnt died on me yet but i get nervous sometimes lol
im not sure i could get it better cause im worried about putting it in a bind? We had it hit 0, but no matter when we tighten it then it goes back to 6
is 6 acceptable???? how acceptable??
i did notice wear on the drive gear, but no worse than the old distributor.
i also have replaced the cap and rotor
ignition wise everything is less than a year old easy
 

Last edited by nemesisinfinity; 04-14-2019 at 01:16 AM.
  #36  
Old 04-14-2019, 10:20 AM
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Why not over adjust so it winds up at zero when you're all done? Is the cam sensor retard changing every time that you rev the engine? Is the distributor body hitting something?
 
  #37  
Old 04-14-2019, 10:23 AM
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It does change when it revs up
I will make another attempt today to try and lower it more
 
  #38  
Old 04-14-2019, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by nemesisinfinity View Post
It does change when it revs up
I will make another attempt today to try and lower it more
Might be that distributor gear. Mine changes less than 2 degrees at all times warm/cold/idle/at speed (this was with a new distributor). But you could split whatever your (cam sensor retard) range is around zero and deal with things later if any problem remains or any problems develop. How much does it vary? 6 degrees max?
 
  #39  
Old 04-14-2019, 08:23 PM
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OK I got it down to where it's 0 at 2k
And only varies by less than 1
I'll watch it and check to see if it shifts
I got it and drove around some more and called it good

Since the original problem is solved I can make another thread about the o2/lean/high trim
Ordeal of need be.


I've got the error for sensor 1 and 3 co2 heater being bad, no SES light yet though

Also gotta track down my fuel tank ground
High voltage from level sensor

I notice that it has an ocasional "cutout" when I go from a stop to mid throttle for maybe a split second.
I made a bunch of logs but haven't done anything with them


High trim % means it's running lean or rich???
 
  #40  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by nemesisinfinity View Post
OK I got it down to where it's 0 at 2k
And only varies by less than 1
I'll watch it and check to see if it shifts
I got it and drove around some more and called it good

Since the original problem is solved I can make another thread about the o2/lean/high trim
Ordeal of need be.


I've got the error for sensor 1 and 3 co2 heater being bad, no SES light yet though

Also gotta track down my fuel tank ground
High voltage from level sensor

I notice that it has an ocasional "cutout" when I go from a stop to mid throttle for maybe a split second.
I made a bunch of logs but haven't done anything with them


High trim % means it's running lean or rich???
Great! So we're done with Cam Sensor Retard.

Actually I think there is some value in keeping the same thread so readers can get the entire picture of what has been done. But you can do what you like if you want to start a new thread. Lots of people seem to start a new thread for everything.

High trim % means the PCM is adding fuel to the standard calibration from the factory, in order to give the correct mixture as determined by the O2 sensor. If the SES light is not on, then it has been successful. For example, a small vacuum leak would give a higher than normal positive fuel trim at idle and the problem would lessen as RPM goes up.. A dribbling injector would give a negative fuel trim. An O2 sensor problem could go either way. But during normal operation, Long Term Fuel Trim and Short Term Fuel Trim should add up to less than 10.

Let's talk about the O2 sensor heater error that you mentioned. How are you detecting that? How is it manifesting?

I'm curious if you ever got Car Gauge Pro for your wife's ABS problem, and if it works in generic mode on your Blazer? Don't worry, we can work on your Blazer with Dash Command. I'm just curious.
 

Last edited by LesMyer; 04-15-2019 at 08:12 AM.

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