Grinding Starter and P1345 Code
Moderator
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 4,338
From: North Central Indiana
If you really think it is surging (and it would also surge at 55mph if this is the case), check the adjustment at the throttle body for the cruise cable. Too much play and cruise controls are known to surge. But the rpms gong up and down with the same vehicle speed in 40-50mph range is the TCC clutch.
Bet it does same thing even when you don't have cruise engaged.
Probably you are noticing this for the first time because the TCC clutch has not been allowed to engage before due to pending misfires or P1345 code setting. Now you have fixed your distributor and TCC is finally locking up - so you are noticing something new. Am I right?
Last edited by LesMyer; Nov 13, 2015 at 02:42 PM.
Beginning Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 10
Hello everyone, I have been browsing the forums and would like some advice.
Currently own a 1998 Blazer, 4.3 vortec, 4wd, 207k miles. A few weeks ago my starter made a terrible noise. I found that the outside mounting bolt had broken. I replaced the bolt and the starter made a grinding noise nearly every time. So I used some shims. No matter how many I used l, the grind would not stop. So I then used a new starter from AutoZone. No shims and the noise was gone for a day, then came back. I took the blazer to a mechanic friend and he placed a washer on the outside bolt to shim it closer and that worked for a day before the noise returned. My friend also said that I have a P1345 code and that means my distributor is misaligned. He moved it but couldn't get it to take, so that needs to be replaced. My friend believes that a new distributor will help engine performance and solve part or most of my hard starting problems. Do any of you have any thoughts or advice? Also, a friend of mine through the church has offered to give me a 2000 Bravada to use as a parts vehicle. It has a major gas leak and he hasn't used it in over a year. The Bravada has a 4.3 vortec and is also 4wd. Will most parts be compatible?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks for any help and God bless.
Currently own a 1998 Blazer, 4.3 vortec, 4wd, 207k miles. A few weeks ago my starter made a terrible noise. I found that the outside mounting bolt had broken. I replaced the bolt and the starter made a grinding noise nearly every time. So I used some shims. No matter how many I used l, the grind would not stop. So I then used a new starter from AutoZone. No shims and the noise was gone for a day, then came back. I took the blazer to a mechanic friend and he placed a washer on the outside bolt to shim it closer and that worked for a day before the noise returned. My friend also said that I have a P1345 code and that means my distributor is misaligned. He moved it but couldn't get it to take, so that needs to be replaced. My friend believes that a new distributor will help engine performance and solve part or most of my hard starting problems. Do any of you have any thoughts or advice? Also, a friend of mine through the church has offered to give me a 2000 Bravada to use as a parts vehicle. It has a major gas leak and he hasn't used it in over a year. The Bravada has a 4.3 vortec and is also 4wd. Will most parts be compatible?
Sorry for the long post. Thanks for any help and God bless.
Thread Starter
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New Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Now that the temps have dropped and we've had our first snow here in Michigan, I have a question about the operating temp. I have heat, but the temp gauge only seems to get up to barely half way between 100 and 210. This can't be normal. At idle the heat feels warm but not hot. After driving for nearly an hour today at around 45mph, the temp still didn't hit even half way between 100 and 210. The heat felt OK though. Think it could be a thermostat stuck partially open?
Beginning Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 10
Now that the temps have dropped and we've had our first snow here in Michigan, I have a question about the operating temp. I have heat, but the temp gauge only seems to get up to barely half way between 100 and 210. This can't be normal. At idle the heat feels warm but not hot. After driving for nearly an hour today at around 45mph, the temp still didn't hit even half way between 100 and 210. The heat felt OK though. Think it could be a thermostat stuck partially open?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 548
From: Iowa
Sounds like it's time for a back flush and new thermostat... Not that bad of a job, esp if you get your mechanic friend to help you out.
If the radiator is original, the drain peacock will open with a 1/4" ratchet. But it will take forever. Just remove the lower radiator hose
I'm pretty sure 195 degrees is OEM for the thermostat. I would have your friend pressure test the cooling system before and after the flush and top it off with a new radiator cap.
Hope that helps!
If the radiator is original, the drain peacock will open with a 1/4" ratchet. But it will take forever. Just remove the lower radiator hose
I'm pretty sure 195 degrees is OEM for the thermostat. I would have your friend pressure test the cooling system before and after the flush and top it off with a new radiator cap.
Hope that helps!
Thread Starter
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New Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7
Thanks for the tips guys! My Dad is handy with a wrench and I've tackled thermostats in other vehicles. I will definitely do a back flush and swap out the stat. I'll keep you all posted. So thankful that I found this forum!
Beginning Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 24
From: Jacksonville, Florida
I would have the trans looked at if it's surging a couple hundred RPM. Lesmyer is right, the torque converter is going from lock-up to non-lock up (clutch engaging and disengaging). Every so often should be OK, but other than once-in-a-blue-moon, the torque converter clutch can be damaged. Just scan the ECM and see if there is any TCC solenoid, PWM, or any other trans related codes.
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