No, it's a single wire that plugs into the ignition module. 1989 is all I need. Saw it in your profile, just wanted to make sure that was correct. TBI 8th VIN character is Z.


On the ignition module: It is pin "B" in the 4 pin connector. Should already have the tan black trace wire there.


On the ECM, it's connector "B", pin #2. Tan black trace wire should be there too.


All you need to do, is put an inline connector in the wire so you can unplug it easily to set timing.

 

Thanks so much,you're a life saver.

 

Thanks, just trying to help Splice in a new wire between the ignition module & the ECM and eliminate, (cut out) the original wire. Reason is if the original wire is still there somewhere, when you disconnect your new connector to set timing, the signal would still travel on the original wire, and timing would be incorrect. Keep me posted on progress.

 

This does not make a lot of sense. Is this when it's idling cold or warmed up? If it's doing this cold, I would look at the TPS and verify voltages at all pins. Besides that, maybe you have a problem with the IAC idle air controller.
When it gets warm and dies what color are a few of the plugs? That could help in telling you if it's flooding out(wet/black), timing drops out(clean/wet), or leans out(clean/dry).

The '89 did not use a vacuum advance distributor did it? Could it be a case of the multi distributor trick that GM pulled at the end of the 80's?

 

[QUOTE=TZFBird;645616]This does not make a lot of sense. Is this when it's idling cold or warmed up? If it's doing this cold, I would look at the TPS and verify voltages at all pins. Besides that, maybe you have a problem with the IAC idle air controller.
When it gets warm and dies what color are a few of the plugs? That could help in telling you if it's flooding out(wet/black), timing drops out(clean/wet), or leans out(clean/dry).

The '89 did not use a vacuum advance distributor did it? Could it be a case of the multi distributor trick that GM pulled at the end of the 80's?[/


It's been at the mechanic due to the fact that I've been extremely busy. All I can tell you at the moment is it ran fine until the pickup coil went bad. I.changed it out and in the process messed the timing up. Now it runs but not like it should. I've thought about the TPS but at the moment my mind keeps going back to the fact that if it ran great before I got the timing off so that seems to be logical at the moment. And the mechanic told me today that he did set the timing with that wire unplugged,but he's not exactly an ace mechanic. Now he's telling me that the timing chain is stretched out to much to get it accurately timed

 

If it ran well before the distributor replacement, you might want to ask him why would the chain stretch if all he did was replace the distributor?


You can check chain slack very easily, without any engine disassembly.

 

Ive got a friend with a timing light that said he would check it real quick,so I'm going to do that and see how it goes from there. How can I check the chain for slack?

 

Using a socket & ratchet on the crankshaft bolt, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the mark on the dampener lines up with the TDC mark on the timing cover. Do not turn the crankshaft counter clockwise, not even a little bit If you miss it, go clockwise another turn. The object here is to keep all chain slack on the passenger side of the engine. Remove the distributor cap so you can see the rotor. Have an assistant watch the rotor closely as you slowly turn the crankshaft counter clockwise. The instant the rotor begins to move, stop turning the crankshaft. Read the degrees on the timing cover. More than 10 degrees is a problem and the chain & gears need replacement NOTE: while you're turning the crank counter clockwise, if you pay attention, you can feel the crank become harder to turn just as the slack comes out.

 

Ok guys,sorry it took so long but heres the update. I went and got it,it crank and drove fine,approximately 4 or 5 miles,no hesitation or skip but still idling funny. That was Tuesday. Finally got time today to put everything back together so I crunk it first thing and it fired right up. So I cut it off and started my project. While I was putting the ECM back where it was I found the wire we had been discussing and it was still unplugged. So I plugged it back in and it was very hesitant to say the least. It would turn,get to where it would about fire,then kind of stall out,while still turning. Is this going to be a problem now that the wire is hooked back up? Am I going to have to retime it again? If so whats the best strategy? Also I unplugged the wire and it acted the same so I gave it a couple minutes and tried again. It finally fired up with the wire unplugged so I plugged the wire back in while it was running and cut it off.

 

Update on the update,turns out the TPS was bad. Replaced it and it's still not idling like it should but it's not cutting off,which is a start.