Fuel checks out ok, unless it is the spider which was replaced 3 years ago.
It is actually obd2, more like obd1.5 but it only uses certain obd2 scan tools.

Does the iac always close after 35mph? I am just out of guesses of what could have caused this and made it so it won't start. I've heard that the knock sensor can stop the engine from starting for about 30 minutes. I obviously tried after 30 minutes, an hour, and 6 hours.... but is there any chance that a sensor like that could prevent it from starting?

 

Supposedly it does, that's how it's supposed to learn its position. But I wouldn't think IAC would cause a no-start. I suppose if you really want to know on a basic level if it is IAC or not, take it off and plug the hole and see if it starts.

 

I'll try that, although I did put the old iac (with the old position) on and tried starting it, and also tried starting it with it unplugged.

 

I looked at the IAC counts on my 2001 on the way home from work.
Cold start counts was 190 at 900 RPM in park (therefore I don't see how max of 255 counts could cause >3000rpm)
Warmed up counts was 75 at 550 in drive with A/C on.
It never got below 70 counts in 15 mile drive home (10 miles going intermittently above 35mph), but I never idled in park when hot.
So I guess the answer to your question is no, the IAC doesn't always close (0 counts) above 35mph.

 

Thanks for getting that! What scanner are you using?
I am just trying to get my car running again, so we'll see if the starting problem and idle problem are somehow related. I rented a nice scan tool, so will be able to diagnose better soon.

 

Well, it's running again! I guess when I was checking the sensors I broke the tps, so after replacing that it started right back up. The idle is still over 2,000 in park and neutral, and i have constant cruise control pretty much... i don't like having to ride my brakes so much.

I'm going to open up the intake manifold and switch out the gasket. I'll take a look at the egr gasket too.

 

I was using Dash Command (for Android) with Enhanced GM PID Package and the BAFX Bluetooth OBD2 device as found on Amazon. Don't know if it will display Enhanced GM PIDs for OBD1.5 or 1995.

Sounds like you have a large vacuum leak somewhere.

 

Last night and this morning I pulled apart the intake plenum, and cleaned everything really well. Before I pulled it apart I did the full seafoam treatment, not just through the brake booster, but through the throttle body with Spray Sea Foam. I blew a lot of smoke, and once the engine cooled down after driving it for a little while I pulled the intake manifold off. There was a ton (about 1/8 inch) of buildup on the walls of the passages going from the egr valve, so I spent a while scraping that, and then went through a lot of throttle body cleaner getting any remaining buildup in the intake plenum. I checked the fuel lines, pressure regulator, poppet valves and everything seemed fine. Once I felt good about how clean everything was inside I put it back together with a new intake plenum gasket, replaced the egr valve and got a gasket with a screen, and since I did a seafoam treatment and it had been a while I also replaced my sparkplugs. Well once I had it all back together I reset the computer and unplugged the battery, and then after waiting a little bit I tried to turn it over and it started right up! MY IDLE IS NORMAL AGAIN! My guess is that the EGR valve replacement and egr air passage cleaning is what fixed it, although all of the work helped.
So now my car idles fine, and I feel much more comfortable driving it around. The brakes are working great since I did my redneck fix of the ABS, and now the only problem I have left is the HVAC. I still can't get air to blow, even after replacing the blower motor, resistor, checking actuators, and checking electrical connections. I'm gonna pull the dash apart and really look at all of those lines, but if you have any tips or suggestions I would love to hear them.

 

This morning my blower kicked on after going over a little bump, stopped again, and then turned back on. It has stayed on, so I won't complain... but I'm just hoping it lasts!

 

If that went on after a bump, went off and then went on sounds like a short somewhere in wiring. I hope it lasts but poke around to make sure there is not a short that will burn the vehicle to the ground.