Im new here, just bought my blazer a few months ago with 74k on it,
I have since put 11k on it bringing it to 85,000
Not bad at all for a '99,
Seeing as it had such low miles, i figured, No more breaking down for a long time(old car was a p.o.s)
Well, that flew out the window,
My blazer decided to start sputtering, out of no where, i figured bad gas
I was on a road trip so i took the opportunity to cyphane out the gas(full tank) and get some at a trusted station. no hiccups or sputters, good. thought it was fixed
Than about a 100 miles in
It sputtered again
So i got off an exit took it off cruise control, and bam, my week of hell started
Car died out on the on ramp as soon as i took off cruise control.
hoped it was the fuel filter, had an extra one(new), so i replaced it.
That didnt do it
Turned around, and drove back home with it dying out ever 20 mins, it would sputter, no response from gas peddle. than all of a sudden catch and work or die out
Ive replaced:
Ignition coil
plugs
wires
rotor
cap
had alternator and battery checked
Had ignition module checked
All relays worked, but replaced them anyway
Now before i replaced all that, it would start than die out
But now after replacing all of that, it doesnt start at all
Anybody that had this issue that got it fixed?
Please Help, Spent every penny i owned on this car, so you know how i feel about just trashing it

 

Replaced fuel pump and filter too! forgot to mention that

 

check voltage at fuel pump for the 2 sec. when key is turned on. make sure battery fully charged 12.66 volts post to post. 11.89 volts is a dead battery. test it usung ground wire (black) and grey wire (pos,) on plug. note voltage. then test with neg. lead on cleaned spot on frame if voltage is higher run ground wire from plug to frame. you may first want to check your fuel pump pressure with key on and while cranking. with the key on for 2 sec. you should have something close to 60 psi. this is what fixed a 95' so you might want to verify that pressure for a 99' i don't want to mislead you.

 

I guess i should mention that on the 95' you could unplug the fuel pump connectors behind the left rear tire over top of frame behind a cover that was held on with push center pin type holders. it was a little easier with tire removed. then we could drop the connectors down between the gas tank and bumper for easier access for testing.

 

The pressure is perfectly fine, even when it dies out, its defiantly not a fuel issue.
My guesses right now are egr valve clogged with carbon, have not taken it apart yet to see
or the ecm?
Both parts are 120 a piece, should i risk it and try?

 

What brand did you replace everything with? It still could be a fuel pressure problem. Do you know what your pressure and leakdown numbers are?
Edit: not trying to be an ***, but its important to test and diagnose before throwing tons of parts at it because you may have thrown a problem part on it that is giving you issues now that has nothing to do with your original problem. Shotgun diagnostics rarely work, it just costs more and you usually end up getting mad.

 

Oh, i know what you mean, Like i said above, i had a pos car before this, a grand prix, so you know i replaced just about everything in it except the engine, then sold it for 800 dollars when i got fed up. haha
But i put all ac delco parts on it.
and had them tested either when they were put on, or at the store.

I dont know what the leak down numbers are, I had the pressure tested and let it die out and the pressure stayed at about 59psi.
But this was tested on line before the regulator, could the regulator be messing with the amount of fuel that actually going into the engine?

 

To test the fuel pressure and leakdown you hook up the gage to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. You can rent a gage from autozone. The key on, engine off number should be 60 to 65 and can't go below 55 for 10 minutes. If you can, recheck it and post back your initial number and 10 minutes later number.
You can also look down the passenger side of the throttle body. If it looks really clean or shows signs of washing then you either have a leaking regulator or leaking injectors. How has your gas mileage been? Any black smoke?
Before replacing the EGR I would re-run the pressure and leakdown test as well as clean the EGR and MAF sensor.

 

id check the vacuum system, cruise control is also run on vacuum i believe...a cut in a line , depending where it is, can cause rough running conditions

 

so i am assuming you have it where it will once again start? next time it dies and will not start spray a little ether in it. if it starts on ether it is a fuel delivery problem. but definetly do leak down test mentioned by 50LB_cat. from what i understand the spider system to injectors develope leaks on these engines. also a vacuum test will tell you whether cat. con. is clogged. are you getting any dtc codes? ensure check engine light working, should come on when key is on then go out. does it always start then die or is there times cranks but won't start? when running and dying is it a fairly consistant time period or does it run alot longer some times?