Intake manifold gasket leaking
#11
Note that with only draining the radiator, about 1/3 of the coolant is left in the system. It takes a few flushes of clean (ideally distilled) water to get it out.
#12
I've lost track of the thread here. What is it about which you are asking? Are you asking what "servicing the cooling system" normally entails? If yes, then it would include a full flush before fresh coolant/water mixture is added back the the cooling system.
Note that with only draining the radiator, about 1/3 of the coolant is left in the system. It takes a few flushes of clean (ideally distilled) water to get it out.
Note that with only draining the radiator, about 1/3 of the coolant is left in the system. It takes a few flushes of clean (ideally distilled) water to get it out.
Replacing the intake manifold gaskets. I know it leaks coolant, so I was wondering if replacing those gaskets also meant servicing the cooling system.
#13
Oh yes. The intake manifold mates with openings to the cooling system at the front and rear ends of the cylinder heads. At the front the, the intake manifold blocks the passageway whereas at the rear, there is a passageway from the head on one side to the other through the intake. Thus, when you change the intake manifolds, it is a very good time to do a proper flush of the whole system before filling it back up again with fresh coolant.
#14
Just picked it up from the mechanic today, ended up going to a different one, ended up paying about $480. He also flushed the heater core. Could that be related?
I did notice though that there seems to be some kind of black goop coming out of the manifold area now, looks like it might be sealant. Is that normal?
The engine was already running when I picked it up so it was already at temperature but it seemed to be running better, restart was instant when I stopped for food. Heater did feel a lot stronger too.
I did notice though that there seems to be some kind of black goop coming out of the manifold area now, looks like it might be sealant. Is that normal?
The engine was already running when I picked it up so it was already at temperature but it seemed to be running better, restart was instant when I stopped for food. Heater did feel a lot stronger too.
#15
Just picked it up from the mechanic today, ended up going to a different one, ended up paying about $480. He also flushed the heater core. Could that be related?
I did notice though that there seems to be some kind of black goop coming out of the manifold area now, looks like it might be sealant. Is that normal?
The engine was already running when I picked it up so it was already at temperature but it seemed to be running better, restart was instant when I stopped for food. Heater did feel a lot stronger too.
I did notice though that there seems to be some kind of black goop coming out of the manifold area now, looks like it might be sealant. Is that normal?
The engine was already running when I picked it up so it was already at temperature but it seemed to be running better, restart was instant when I stopped for food. Heater did feel a lot stronger too.
Flushing the heater core would be a good practice while the hoses were disconnected. The black goop is the RTV sealant used at the front and rear edges of the block.
Glad you got it fixed and it is working well.
#16
Hmm, just checked my coolant, the level is right where it was before, very low, and now it looks cloudy? Maybe with a bit less color? With the level so low I can also see the inside of the tank, it’s filthy, sludge everywhere.
Also curiously I see some droplets of what looks like normal (green) coolant on top of my battery like some was spilled, yet none was added to the system? Also the coolant in the system is the orange kind.
Any ideas what happened?
I think I might run back up there tomorrow.
Also curiously I see some droplets of what looks like normal (green) coolant on top of my battery like some was spilled, yet none was added to the system? Also the coolant in the system is the orange kind.
Any ideas what happened?
I think I might run back up there tomorrow.
#17
The coolant being low could be air working out of the system but I would check the oil to see if has water in it., Might look chocolate milk if it has water in it.
As for the front end work the wheel bearing on contained in hubs and held on with 3 bolts and axle nut. If you pull the hub replacing the CV shaft isn't bad but take some doing.
I just replace the front differential seal on my son's truck which required removing the CV shaft and hub. I chose to break the ball joints free so I could swing the steering knuckle out of the way.
Easy to do the shocks at that time so I would save up for one big repair fest. Not having ABS isn't the end of the world just means you need to driving like it's 1979 and pump the brakes.
Just 2 years ago I hadn't done a LIM and have done them on 3 vehicles. I hadn't pulled a CV shaft until this summer when I changed out on my youngest son's Trailblazer and as the saying goes if you can't fix it with a big pry bar and a hammer you have an electrical problem.
I can be done especially there days with the internet with this forum and YouTube but remember some people on both are more lucky than good.
As for the front end work the wheel bearing on contained in hubs and held on with 3 bolts and axle nut. If you pull the hub replacing the CV shaft isn't bad but take some doing.
I just replace the front differential seal on my son's truck which required removing the CV shaft and hub. I chose to break the ball joints free so I could swing the steering knuckle out of the way.
Easy to do the shocks at that time so I would save up for one big repair fest. Not having ABS isn't the end of the world just means you need to driving like it's 1979 and pump the brakes.
Just 2 years ago I hadn't done a LIM and have done them on 3 vehicles. I hadn't pulled a CV shaft until this summer when I changed out on my youngest son's Trailblazer and as the saying goes if you can't fix it with a big pry bar and a hammer you have an electrical problem.
I can be done especially there days with the internet with this forum and YouTube but remember some people on both are more lucky than good.
#18
I checked the oil as suggested, I would not describe it as chocolate milk, still relatively clear and just looked like normal motor oil, though judging by this paper towel it should probably be changed soon.
Change the oil?
Change the oil?
#19
Since the oil is clear I would assume that air worked it way refill the overflow with the proper coolant mix...Do Not mix green coolant with the Orange dexcool or you will create a sludge that doesn't cool.
Sorry if that seems basic but it's been done more than once.
Sorry if that seems basic but it's been done more than once.
#20
THE BEST write up for this job. Save it!
When I first learned about how the lower intake manifold (LIM) gaskets (the ones next to the heads) could fail catastrophically with little or no warning and dump coolant into the lifter valley and ruin the main bearings, I immediately made plans to replace them.
As for the quote, $600 is about 5 hours of labor plus parts. That is not unreasonable to me as I took a whole day to do it. LOL If it had been my 68 Mustang with a 289, replacing the intake manifold gaskets would be a snap. But with our 4.3 Blazers, there is a LOT of stuff to move out of the way before you get to the LIM gaskets. I found it really annoying to do because the engine compartment is so cramped and there are brackets to move out of the way.
The issue is that the original LIM gaskets had a plastic carrier frame that would slowly dissolve. There replacement ones by FelPro that have a metal carrier that everyone uses.
When I did mine, I also took the opportunity to replace the fuel injection spider with an upgraded one. This was probably excessive on my part but the truck was 18 years old at the time.
As for the best write up on replacing the gaskets, I'm attaching pdfs of a webpage that described it well. The link seems to be broken but here it is anyway: http://www.handymanlyness.com/archiv..._99_Jimmy.html
As for the quote, $600 is about 5 hours of labor plus parts. That is not unreasonable to me as I took a whole day to do it. LOL If it had been my 68 Mustang with a 289, replacing the intake manifold gaskets would be a snap. But with our 4.3 Blazers, there is a LOT of stuff to move out of the way before you get to the LIM gaskets. I found it really annoying to do because the engine compartment is so cramped and there are brackets to move out of the way.
The issue is that the original LIM gaskets had a plastic carrier frame that would slowly dissolve. There replacement ones by FelPro that have a metal carrier that everyone uses.
When I did mine, I also took the opportunity to replace the fuel injection spider with an upgraded one. This was probably excessive on my part but the truck was 18 years old at the time.
As for the best write up on replacing the gaskets, I'm attaching pdfs of a webpage that described it well. The link seems to be broken but here it is anyway: http://www.handymanlyness.com/archiv..._99_Jimmy.html
use it to reference for my 3rd LIM replacement. THANKYOU!!! for including a PDF of this process. I haven't been able to find the one I thought I had.
This is by far THE best write up for this job.