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I've got power issues and belt noise issues, HELP!!!

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Old 06-04-2011, 02:36 PM
cruukedeye's Avatar
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Default I've got power issues and belt noise issues, HELP!!!

So I have a fuel injected chevy 1991, full size k5 Blazer, 350 v8; Here's my issues that I need help with; Just recently replaced the heads, had a few problems before and now a few afterwards, any help would be awesome.

#1.) It's making noise off the belt, the air pump was removed before I owned it and was still rocking that belt for awhile and I would notice that the belt would pull away from the pully under the ac pully when i would rev it up, this looseness was definetly why it made alot of noise, so I replaced the belt to a non-air pump belt and made sure I routed it right, the noise went away for the day I put it on but came back the next day, its not as bad as before and doesn't occur all the time and really it only does it at idle but as soon as there's a load even a small amount of raising the rpms the noise goes away. So I removed the belt, checked all the pullys, no wobbeling or looseness on any of them, the tensioner pully still keeps tight but I'm thinking not tight enough, what do ya all think?

->In addition I need someone to take a picture of their engine for me, I need to see how the two metal arm brackets attach to the back of the tensioner pully and to the intake manifold, I think I might not have them on their correctly.

#2.) TOP END POWER ISSUE. So I'm thinking I might just have the valves tightened down too much but I'm not sure, the truck cruises great around town but doesn't really have any *****, no high RPMs I dont have a tach but by the sounds of it, it will not go over 4000 RPMS maybe 4500 at best. So when I floor it all I get is a little bit of power defentitly not the beastly roar I was used to hearing before I swapped out the heads. So in turn on the highway I was limited to about 55-65 MPH pedal to the floor and just gave me nothing when I'd be climbing the mountains along the PCH here in Cali.

HERE's WHAT I've DONE TO FIGURE IT OUT:
-> I've checked to see if the throttle cable is getting blocked and it's not.
-> I've fiddled with the timing, currently it's running the best at 8 degrees with the electronic timing control unplugged when setting, when ya plug it back in it's beyond 12 but I know thats ok.
-> Checked all the sparkplug wires and for proper gapping, all are set to .035

WHAT I MIGHT HAVE DONE THAT SCREWD IT UP:
-> When I was adjusting the valve lash, while it was running, I was told to tighten the rocker down until it stopped chattering then tighten one full spin to set it, but now I have this issue. And I've gotten some feedback from friends telling me I should have only spun it 1/4 to 1/2 spin to set it.

*So I dont know what are ya all's feeling on this? Could it just be that I tightend the rockers down to much when I put the heads back on and that its causing the pushrod to not allow the valve to close all the way?
 
  #2  
Old 06-04-2011, 06:49 PM
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here is the valve adjustment instructions


Remove the rocker arm cover.
Crank the engine until the mark on the vibration damper lines up with the center or "O" mark on the timing tab, and the engine is in the number one firing position. This may be determined by placing fingers on the number one valve as the mark on the damper comes near the "0" mark on the timing tab. If the rocker arms are not moving, the engine is in the number one firing position. If the rocker arms move as the mark comes up to the timing tab, the engine is in the number six firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach the number one position.
With the engine in the number one firing position as determined above, the following valves may be adjusted:
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
(Even numbered cylinders are in the right bank; odd numbered cylinders are in the left bank, when viewed from the rear of the engine.)

Back out the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod, then turn in the adjusting nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while turning the adjusting nut. When the play has been removed, turn the adjusting nut inward one full additional turn (to center the lifter plunger).
Crank the engine one revolution until the timing tab "0" mark and vibration damper mark are again in alignment. This is the number six firing position; the following valves may be adjusted:
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Install rocker arm cover.
Torque
Torque to:11 Nm (95 lb in)
 
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