last winter, my intake manifold gasket blew and my engine was burning coolant. it also got into the oil.
i realized i was burning coolant when i noticed i had no more heat and the engine was knocking on start-up...

i replaced the gasket and the guy at the garage told me to add a bottle of additive in every oil change from now on. i did at every 3000milles and the noise never came back.

until last oil change. the noise reappeared after 2500milles since the last oil change. i tought i idle the truck more than usual and the oil is due for a change. so i replaced the oil/filter and added the usual additive.
knock is still there on start-up, goes away after a minute.

so, i guess i need to replace some bearings around the crank/rods.
wich ones ?
can i do it with engine in truck(removal of oil pan) ?
special knowledge/tools required ?

thanks
Anthony

 

anyone ?
i would like to fix it before metal shavings gets everywhere.

 

Exact problem I had. My lifters started bleeding and I used a stabilizer to get another 10k out of the engine. Unfortunately the way to fix the problem for good is: A) Rebuild or B)New engine.

I had no choice in mine. Going down the road the engine just completely went oil and coolant coming out of every crack in the engine. But since Jasper demanded a core back the shop had no time to tear down the engine for me.

 

I got lucky and smelled antifreeze, happened to be right in front of a autozone. So I whiped it in the parking lot, looked and didn't see anything. Long story short I ended up getting it towed, from an hour away from home. My mechanic said, 'towing it probably saved the engine'. My intake gasket was busted, and just fell apart when removed. The gaskets are like a plastic with a rubber seal...pathetic!
Anywayz, I just thought I'd share that. Good luck on your re-build or replacement.

 

thanks for both replys, but my problem is not in the lifters area.
its a knock from the base of the engine. because coolant has been in the oil.

my question is wich bearings should be changed ? and can they be changed while the engine is still in the truck ?

Anthony

 

Since water has been in the system,instead of doing just the bottom end id go ahead and just have a full rebuild done. worth it IMO

 

this is my daily driver, and i need it everyday.
if i start to work on it, it has to be driveable the next day.
so i cant really do a full rebuilt of the engine, i will probably wait untill it fails/gets worse then replace it with a junkyard engine...

thanks,
Anthony

 

Right, find a replacement engine or have that one rebuilt while you grab a rental maybe. A friend, family member could lend you a ride perhaps.. I don't know your situation.
In the mean time, use 4qts 20~50 oil along with 1 tube of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Go easy on the pedal, and you may be able to squeeze more miles than you think.

 

20w50 ? is this diesel oil ?
and can i use this in canadian winter ? (-20c)

right now im using regular 5w30 with a bottle of additive for worn engine and it does'nt hide the noise anymore...

 

mmm.. I didn't think about that, sorry. You can use 20w50 in the summer and 10w30 now for winter, with the additive it will be even thicker. I know that may seem to thick for your conditions, but with motor damage it may be needed.
Diesel's mostly use 15w40.. so 20w50 is thicker. 15w40 actually may be a better choice for the summer since you are using an additive. The thicker oil will keep your pressure up better, and lube better where needed.
Also when you change your oil be sure to use a filter with a good drainback valve, and pour oil in the filter before you twist it on, to keep from air pocketing. Check out the link. It will give you some info about the oil, if you don't like my advise you can always do what you think is best. Because I'm not there, and haven't listened to it run.
What Every Motorist Should Know About Motor Oil