Let see how many things can go wrong!
#21
09-03-2010, 11:36 AM
You really only need a fuel pressure gauge. Just follow the fuel system diagnosis link in my signature.
There are a few different lean codes. You can find a few of them in the OBD2 Codes index link also located in my signature. There's all sorts of helpful stuff down there.
There are a few different lean codes. You can find a few of them in the OBD2 Codes index link also located in my signature. There's all sorts of helpful stuff down there.
#22
09-03-2010, 12:05 PM
thanks, I did look through the 96+ fuel system diagnosis....I will look at OBDII
The fuel pressure gauge is on the injector? right? if so it came new with the new injector I just put in...hmmmm Ima have to wait till tomorrow when I get the codes read.
The fuel pressure gauge is on the injector? right? if so it came new with the new injector I just put in...hmmmm Ima have to wait till tomorrow when I get the codes read.
Last edited by BresBlazy; 09-03-2010 at 01:27 PM.
#23
09-03-2010, 04:08 PM
The fuel pressure regulator is connected to your fuel injection spider. There is a valve you can see and get to on top and behind the upper plenum that you check the fuel pressure with. It looks like an oversized tire valve/shrader valve. It should have a black or grey twist on cover on it. You can buy them for around $40.00 at O'reillys here or take it to a auto place and have them test it for you. I had mine tested for $20 at a local garage. They wanted 40.00, but I said I could buy a new one for that, so they figured they better make some $$$ and not let a potential customer get away..Ha
#24
09-04-2010, 12:08 AM
ok guys, im going to cry soon.
NOW my battery seems to be draining rather quickly....the lights for the gears and milage are flickering....heres my list of issues:
well heres some suggestions for ya
Batter voltage 2 notches below 14---get a multi-meter put it on 20VDC, with the engine off the battery should be between 12.2 volts and 12.6 volts(maybe a little higher if u just should the car off), as you crank the engine to start it, the battery voltage should not drop below 9.5 volts...with the vehicle running, charging voltage should be around 14.4 volts and should not drop below 14.0 volts with all the accessories on including headlights...if your readings are low check all connections concerned with the battery/alternator for corrosion or if its loose
gear and milage light flickering----the circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster has a loose connection(more likely the board then connector, can be resoldered or replaced)
leak near on and around oil filter (now I did not change it myself last time)---oil filter loose, or lines goin to the filter, spray it down with some degreaser and hose it off real good and with the engine running, watch the area for leaks
Changed out injector but still sputtering/jerking at 2500-3000 rmps and under, once warm, problem is gone._---check out your spark wires ends for corrosion and also check the cap and rotor, needs clean connections, those things like to misfire
power door locks now not working...just the locks, rear hatch and alarm work.--check fuse, try cleaning(rubbing alcohol) the contacts on the door lock switches
Changed out injector
Cleaned MAF sensor
Put in an injector cleaner
Someone suggested alternator?
NOW my battery seems to be draining rather quickly....the lights for the gears and milage are flickering....heres my list of issues:
well heres some suggestions for ya
Batter voltage 2 notches below 14---get a multi-meter put it on 20VDC, with the engine off the battery should be between 12.2 volts and 12.6 volts(maybe a little higher if u just should the car off), as you crank the engine to start it, the battery voltage should not drop below 9.5 volts...with the vehicle running, charging voltage should be around 14.4 volts and should not drop below 14.0 volts with all the accessories on including headlights...if your readings are low check all connections concerned with the battery/alternator for corrosion or if its loose
gear and milage light flickering----the circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster has a loose connection(more likely the board then connector, can be resoldered or replaced)
leak near on and around oil filter (now I did not change it myself last time)---oil filter loose, or lines goin to the filter, spray it down with some degreaser and hose it off real good and with the engine running, watch the area for leaks
Changed out injector but still sputtering/jerking at 2500-3000 rmps and under, once warm, problem is gone._---check out your spark wires ends for corrosion and also check the cap and rotor, needs clean connections, those things like to misfire
power door locks now not working...just the locks, rear hatch and alarm work.--check fuse, try cleaning(rubbing alcohol) the contacts on the door lock switches
Changed out injector
Cleaned MAF sensor
Put in an injector cleaner
Someone suggested alternator?
SOOOO, I have been looking on here about how the fuel system works and I think I may be having a fuel pressure issue....a lean condition? because everything I read and whats going on with my truck points me there....pressure drop when exel, loss of power, surging, misfire....hard start when its cold...
It says there that a lean condition can cause a DTC to set...what does that mean? And other than another fuel pressure test and using a scan tool to pressurize the fuel system what do I need to do here?
FYI, its not over heating, if anything its running cool....could this mean a bad sensor? Taking it in in the morning to have the pressure tested.
It says there that a lean condition can cause a DTC to set...what does that mean? And other than another fuel pressure test and using a scan tool to pressurize the fuel system what do I need to do here?
FYI, its not over heating, if anything its running cool....could this mean a bad sensor? Taking it in in the morning to have the pressure tested.
fuel pressure should be between 60 and 65 psi, but could be good as low as 55psi... the nozzle for the pressure tester is on the line goin to the spider injector about 6 or 8 inches back towards the firewall.........install the pressure tester with the engine off, when you turn the key to on position the fuel pump will cycle on for a couple seconds and pressurize the system or you can just start it up, the pressure gauge should go up and down a bit as you rev the motor
also bad o2 sensors ( the ones in front of the catalytic convertor) can cause a lean condition...is the engine light on? have you had the codes checked? if so what are they?
Last edited by swartlkk; 09-04-2010 at 07:39 AM. Reason: *Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit feature to add more information to your post. If replying to more than one post, please use the multiquote feature. Thanks!
#25
09-04-2010, 03:19 PM
Yep, considered all of this already....changing oil and fuel filters right now....
Check engine light comes and goes....code is 0300 random misfire.....as Im sure you know...
Im going to see if the fuel filter change helps, I also have more injector cleaner....do you think I should use it also?
Havin trouble getting the fuel filter off, waiting for some man power LOL hes getting the breaks done on the Audi, hate that car.
Check engine light comes and goes....code is 0300 random misfire.....as Im sure you know...
Im going to see if the fuel filter change helps, I also have more injector cleaner....do you think I should use it also?
Havin trouble getting the fuel filter off, waiting for some man power LOL hes getting the breaks done on the Audi, hate that car.
#27
09-04-2010, 09:32 PM
Yep, considered all of this already....changing oil and fuel filters right now....
Check engine light comes and goes....code is 0300 random misfire.....as Im sure you know...
Im going to see if the fuel filter change helps, I also have more injector cleaner....do you think I should use it also?
Havin trouble getting the fuel filter off, waiting for some man power LOL hes getting the breaks done on the Audi, hate that car.
Check engine light comes and goes....code is 0300 random misfire.....as Im sure you know...
Im going to see if the fuel filter change helps, I also have more injector cleaner....do you think I should use it also?
Havin trouble getting the fuel filter off, waiting for some man power LOL hes getting the breaks done on the Audi, hate that car.
there are a bunch of threads on here about the 0300 code
i think i read you just replaced the spider injector, so i wouldnt worry about injector cleaner....u can try using "Seafoam" or GM "top engine cleaner"(from a GM dealer parts dept.) thru the intake(you can slowly pour it in thru the brake booster vacuum line with the engine running), but you have to change the oil after you use it.....basically it dissolves the carbon and gunk buildup on the valves and pistons, which can also help get rid of misfires....
there are also a bunch of threads about using seafoam on this site
Last edited by spkremer; 09-04-2010 at 09:36 PM.
#28
09-05-2010, 01:57 AM
SOOOO Today, I re-cleaned the MAF sensor because after looking at pics of clean ones I realized I was TOO careful and did not clean it well....SO thats all clean.
I also replaced Oil filter and fuel filter....
I usually have my husband disconnect the battery because I am a chicken liver and dont want to get fried....LOL today was an very good example WHY!
He was putting the cables back on the batt after my MAF cleaning and he hit the alternator with the socket wrench....I hear this pop pop pop! and smokes coming out!! the end of the wrench is fried and he is looking at me like OOPS! I am freakin out LOL he goes well, turn it on! I go and put the key in and notice the fuel gauge has dropped down and is pointing to the ground!!! I yell out YOU KILLED HER! LOL I turned my truck on and all was fine....ARG FYI the car is running better than ever, no stalling or anything! IM really happy about that!
SOOOO heres the BAD news, while under there I noticed THIS:
Drivers side:
Pass side:
Other pics from todays work:
Last edited by BresBlazy; 09-05-2010 at 02:03 AM.
#29
09-05-2010, 08:52 AM
The orange rubber thing is called a "bump stop" ! It helps to keep the A-frame from bottoming out and smacking up your front suspension. It looks like a squirrel chewed it down to nothing or something.lol
I bet it feels good to get her running smooth again..good job
I bet it feels good to get her running smooth again..good job
