Alright, Narrowed it down to an issue only when warmed up, as she will start just fine cold and even warm but will only rev past 1500 or so when cold.

List of things with 0 miles on them and maybe 30 minutes of total runtime -
Distributor, Rotor, Cap, Plugwires, EGR Valve, All upper intake gaskets except the MAP sensor and the 3 grommets for the Valve covers and brake booster side of its vac hose (hose port is currently plugged with old plug wire in lieu of vacuum cap), And the pressure Regulator.

About 2 hours later i went out to restart it and it refused, would try and a tiny bit after letting off the key but it would not catch and sustain. I dont believe its flooding since it has MPFI injectors and the regulator is "new" - plus it runs in general when cold. NOPE, Got outside today after leaving the battery on a tender all night, tried to turn it over to check around for leaks and no go, its cranking extremely weak now so i dont know if its the somewhat cold temps (yesterday it was 80, today its around 68 or so) or what. back on the tender it goes.

heres a video, All of the RPM jiggling that happens after the initial runup is with my foot stationary after laying it in by maybe a quarter of an inch. that is the stumble. -

 

Back to square 1 pretty much, its refusing to start again, and now the DRLs are not working, plus the AUX PWR fuse #13 blew in the inside fuse box and i dont know what caused that. it really never ends. solved that, parking brake caused DRLs to go off (left it on from when i was testing for a neutral safety switch issue.) im going to try like hell to find a sparktester for cheap around here as now im back to ignition since its intermitted and earlier during cranking the cylinder was cold after way more then a few 'sputters'

over a year later here is an edit to add closure to the thread -7/30/2021
Low voltage at fuel pump sub 10 volts, "Good pressure" doesnt beat good diagnostic tools, replaced the ignition switch and she was good to go.