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No start, backfire through intake

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Old 09-06-2016, 10:27 PM
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Default No start, backfire through intake

I'm out of ideas and need help. Last week the truck started running poorly, it felt just like a misfire on one of the cylinders. The last thing I did to the truck was try to find the source of a leak on the passenger side floor area when it rains or snows. I was sure it was coming from the air recirculation door so I took the cowl off and checked for any mud/leaves/junk and when I saw it was totally clean I stuck a garden hose in there to try and make it leak. The next day when I drove it, it felt like it was missing. As far as I know there aren't any wires or anything back where I sprayed the water. I thought maybe one of the poppets popped out since all ignition and fuel related items are only 2 years old and didn't think something could be broken already. I removed the plenum to find all the poppets still firmly in place. I turned on the ignition to check for leaks and there were none. Since the plenum was off and I had access to the back of the engine, I grabbed the wires back there and gave them a good shake in case one had some exposed copper and was shorting.

I buttoned the engine back up and decided to check the wires, cap, and rotor. When I went to pull the wires off the spark plugs, 2 of the boots ripped in half and 2 others were cracked and exposed. When I went to remove the cap, I saw the center contact for the coil had broken off and the spark seemed to be traveling to the rotor through the little spring that was in there. The rotor was also full of corrosion and powder. The contacts for the cylinders in the cap were just as corroded. Thinking this must be my problem, I replaced wires, cap, and rotor. When I went to start the truck, it wouldn't start. It cranks and cranks with small pops through the intake but doesn't come close to starting.

Next I checked the plugs. They all were dark and rusty so I replaced them. I also put in my spare brand new ICM but the truck still wouldn't start.

I checked for spark by plugging in a test light to the end of my #3 spark plug wire and it was getting spark. I checked for fuel pressure at the schrader valve and got 58-60 psi with key on and during cranking. I put the old ICM back in, cleaned and greased all electrical contacts, took the intake elbow off and sprayed starting fluid in there and tried to start it. It cranked and backfired out the intake with some serious force. I thought maybe my plug wires are in the wrong spots on the cap so I moved them all over one but then the engine cranks and stops, then cranks and stops.

So to recap, the truck went from running poorly like it had a missfire on one cylinder to not starting and backfiring out the intake while cranking.

Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ICM.
Verified spark at #3 spark plug
Verified fuel pressure at schrader valve.
Firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2 and plug wires are connected to cap clockwise in that order with #1 on the front-most terminal.

Please help!
 
  #2  
Old 09-08-2016, 07:17 PM
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Looks like I just didn't have the wires in the correct spot on the cap after all. I cut a finger off one of my nitrile gloves and zip tied it to my compression tester hose to find #1 TDC. When I got there and looked at the rotor, this is where it was pointing:


Looking at the cap, #1 is the passenger side contact perpendicular to engine center line. Way off from any diagram I've ever seen.


Here's a close up of the distributor, someone has marked it in the past.


When I connected the rest of the wires in the correct firing order of 1-6-5-4-3-2 it fired right up.
 
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