It is running like butter now. Thanks for all the help. I don't know what it was but I have a feeling it was one of the plugs wasn't seated correctly in the distributor cap. Before I
moved anything I traced the wires from the engine to the cap like 3 times to make sure they were in the right spot.
I removed all the wires from the distributor cap and took it out to inspect it and the rotor. I changed those a couple of months back so I was hoping nothing was wrong with them. I put the rotor and cap
back in and checked the wire order again and it's now running like new.
Not sure if it mattered but I rearranged the wires into the wire clamps so they wouldn't touch just in case there was an insulation problem,
which there shouldn't be because I just changed out the wires but you never know.

 

So the P0135 code is cleared?


George

 

Actually no. It seems to pop up every now and then. But the misfiring is gone.

 

If that's a new O2 sensor then you should check the connector , wiring and power at the sensor. Its the two wires with the same color. Best to check power/voltage under full load if possible.

George

 

how do I check it? I have a multimeter and test light.

 

Is your test light led or incandescent, and if incandescent do you know the amperage draw or wattage of the bulb?

Do you have an amp clamp meter?


George

 

I have both. Should I just use the led?

 

The trick is to check the heater power circuit under a load to make sure that it can deliver the proper voltage and current when the heater is on. If you have an incandescent test light that draws around an amp then you can use that as the load by unplugging the harness and placing the test light across the heater terminals which are black and pink for B1S1 on your truck. If the light turns on (after starting a cold truck) then measure the voltage with the light still connected as a load. If you get no light try the test light from the pink wire to frame ground.

Alternatively you back probe the connector with everything connected for voltage and get current with an amp probe meter.

George

 

I'll have to see what I can do. I read this a couple of times last night and it just seemed like another language. I kinda get it, I just don't know how to pull it off.

 

I’ll see if I can clarify.

If you look at the connector for the O2 sensor, there should be two wires that are the same color on the sensor side. Those are the heater power wires. The opposite side of the connector in the harness going to the ECM should be the black and pink wires for the heater power. We need to make sure that the black and pink harness wires can supply the voltage and current to run the sensor heater. Let’s start simple.

The heater power is switched on and on and off by the ECM because it’s not always needed. Since you probably don’t have a scanner that can command the heater power on we need to check it when we know there is a call for heater power which is when the engine is cold and running. You can either probe into the socket or back probe behind the socket. Don’t ever force something way bigger into the front of the socket because you can distort the socket blades. A simple check is to see if there is power on those two wires with a cold running engine using a voltmeter. The next best check is that there is enough power to light up an incandescent test light since that provides a load. Since your test light probably has a probe point and an alligator clip, you will need something to use as a probe in the socket for the ground clip to attract to. Let’s stop here for now and see if you have any questions.


George