I am sick and tired of my oil cooler lines leaking. I have gone through 2 dorman sets and a gm triple crimp set. they still drip from the crimps. before I throw on set #4 I am wondering if I remove the cooler adapter from the block and install the threaded adapter will there be enough room for a short style filter on the block? im thinking there will not be enough room because it is a 4x4. cant find anyone whos done this . im assuming for a reason. but is it possible? I don't tow a heavy trailer and im well aware that the lines serve a purpose. just tired of leaks .

 

Why not fix it right with 1/2" hydraulic line? Got sick of mine leaking years ago, dry as a bone ever since. Need four 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic adapters and two pieces of 1/2" hydraulic line. Any shop that makes hydraulic hoses can make them for you. Attach the compression fittings to the original aluminum tubes...done. Don't even have to remove the rear set of lines to do it.

 

that is an excellent idea. being hydraulic hose and crimps im sure they hold up? my whole goal for this is one less part to fail. im going to be needing to do an overhaul soon as last oil change I had quite a bit of metal in the oil. of course this was only after I bent a valve last fall. replaced the head and all seemed fine but I developed a ticking noise cant find it for the life of me. but I assume its where the metal is coming from. either way its not good so I just wanted to eliminate the lines for peace of mind . do you know for sure if a short spin on filter will fit at the block and clear the front driveshaft?

 

also may or may not be planning a v8 swap if this motor goes . haven't decided.

 

The hydraulic hose must be compatable with engine oil. Some hydraulic hoses are more flexible than others: the more flexible it is, the easier it is to work with when installing the lines. The new hoses must go back on the same tubes, don't transpose them. Measure the overall length of the section that you need, including the adapters, before cutting the old crimps off Hydraulic hose, and those adapters, are good for 2000+psi, so they should be good for 60-80psi of oil pressure Some of the members here have used hose clamps with success, but personally, I wouldn't trust my engine to that method. A half inch hose can move a lot of oil very quickly at 50psi! If a hose blows off at 70mph, the oil pump will empty the oil pan before you know it! Using the short filter should work, but it's a tight fit with the front propeller shaft, plus you lose the benefit of the oil cooler.

 

i remember someone posting on here a while back by just putting the threated nipple in there and the oil filter wouldnt fit, ended up hitting something in the front suspension.

 

Capt fix works great! I did mine years ago much the same as that and never had an issue afterward. You don't cut the crimps off though, cut the tube right beside the crimps. We do replacement lines for the local GM dealer for a lot of the older Diesel truck oil coolers with the same issue. Just did a line for a Jaguar that had the same issue. Any good hydraulic repair shop should be able to make up replacement rubber lines if you bring in your originals. Here are the hose specs(G1) for the lowest pressure/temperature braided hyd hose we carry.

I should add that we use Gates C5D hose for cooler lines for the trans shops and dealerships.

 

I'm one of those who used hose clamps when I made my new lines. I know it's not the best solution, and I should have gone with ones like the Captain said. However, I put two clamps at every end of the hoses, and it's been over a year, and not a single drip!

Who was it that likes to take the lines off altogether? Chris015? I can't remember. He claims it works well, but I like the idea of the oil cooler, and it's a lot easier to access the filter behind the skid plate, rather than up above the driveshaft.

 

Yup, I think you're right, but isn't his a 1st gen?

 

I know it's expensive but you can always go with -AN fittings and lines. I think I priced it out when I first got my Blazer and it was something like $75 to replace just between the block and the filter mount though. I ended up using hydraulic hose and the double crimp style hose clamps.