Oil cooler line delete on 4x4?
#42
I sure hope this works. Gonna do it since my axle is out and easy to access. I'm doing the RC lift so hoping that will give a little more room for the pf47 oil filter to fit in and out for oil/filter changes.
To be clear there is no need for a bypass valve adapter plate like the 5.7 sbc has that has the filter threads on it?
To be clear there is no need for a bypass valve adapter plate like the 5.7 sbc has that has the filter threads on it?
#43
Just went out and looked at remote oil bracket assembly and I noticed there's a bypass built into it. I'm gonna check out getting a oil filter adapter with a built bypass and not just the filter threaded stud without bypass. The adapter should bolt up using the 2 threaded holes the cooler adapter uses. Anyone think of this that has bypassed the bypass.
#44
Ok never mind removed adapter on block and found what looks like another bypass. Would of never thought there'd be one there but does make sense incase lines clogged to filter adapter. So gonna go with the stud and hope this works out. Thanks all for this forum full of info.
#45
I got the fitting today and was a straight forward install for me. The short side went into block and I tightened it with a hex bit I had from a bit kit for brakes I had. The PF47 went right on and snugged up to block. I do have to mention I have my whole front suspension out and axle removed so made this mod simple. The filter isnt much taller than the line adapter so think it will work when doing oil changes.
Anyone think to change the filter more frequently than the oil due to having half the filtration capacity of the PF52 filter?
Anyone think to change the filter more frequently than the oil due to having half the filtration capacity of the PF52 filter?
#46
No need to remove any hard lines ...??
Why not fix it right with 1/2" hydraulic line? Got sick of mine leaking years ago, dry as a bone ever since. Need four 1/2" compression to 1/2" hydraulic adapters and two pieces of 1/2" hydraulic line. Any shop that makes hydraulic hoses can make them for you. Attach the compression fittings to the original aluminum tubes...done. Don't even have to remove the rear set of lines to do it.
Attachment 31416
Attachment 31416
THIS, HOWEVER, DOES INDEED SEEM TO BE A "MOST EXCELLENT" APPROACH?!
Anyhow, THERE'S SOME "historical contraries";
I didn't take any of the metal tubing that runs to my oil filter off when I did mine. I just cut each factory crimp off and then went from there. TIP! - For the two that are right behind the radiator and above the splash shield, instead of taking the splash shield out (which is a bitch), just take the air box out and they are exposed and you should have quite a bit of room to get those two crimps that are underneath the air box. At least I have enough room. (I'm pretty small)
-and e.g. -
Remove your splash shield and go up from underneath. 6 15mm bolts and your there.
That's what I did. I took the fender well out. (Or the splash shield, same difference)
-and e.g. -
No need to remove any hard lines ...
-and &tc &tc. -
Not trying to be cute, but on MY 2nd Gen 4X4 ... Is it likely, and possible, that simply removing obstacles and replacing w/ brake tube and compression fittings (leaving everything hard-line ALONE) is simplest/quickest?? This thread "strongly suggests" that's TRUE ... PROVIDED there's"No need to remove any hard lines ..."
Y/N "answer" might be nice, and won't get to it until this Spring, so any advance warning (on this bit-of-a brain teaser) ... muchas gracias!
#48
Drop one end of the driveshaft? How did you get the old one out?
#50
If it's really close, you might be able to jack the engine up slightly without disconnecting anything. Use a piece of wood under the oil pan with a floor jack and just take the weight off the motor mounts. You can probably gain 1/4 inch or so that way.
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02-16-2014 08:58 PM