Look at my previous post, I just gave all the part numbers to do this properly, and without a problem of space. There have been many blazer and typhoon owners that have done this conversion without a problem of space.
The oil filter number I have given is a bit shorter to not come in contact with the front shaft/differential. Once its all done, getting to the filter really is not a problem.

The hardest part will be getting the old oil lines out, and the oil filter adapter on the block out, but with patience, it all can be done without unbolting anything or removing anything involving the drive line.
swivel sockets, and extensions to get the adapter off, and then wiggling and twisting to get it out of there, as for the lines, some kind of saw to cut the lines into pieces.
not that it matters, they are leaking anyways. so cutting them is not a problem.


As for the holes that will be left in the radiator where the oil cooler lines used to go... not a problem there either. Just leave them, the top one will be hidden by the upper rad hose, the bottom one will also be hidden out of site.

In the end, you will be left with a cleaner engine bay, no leaking lines, and an oil filter where it should be, with no problems down the road, win win win win.

 

U could leave the front shaft out also as a option

 

Yeah, I saw you posted the filter number, it just seems like it would still be super tough to get at every 3,000 miles. To me, seems like much less work to fix the lines properly and be able to more easily access the filter.

Of course, with 250k+ miles, I'm sure my motor mounts have sagged somewhat, decreasing the clearance.

One thing is for certain: mount the filter on the block, and you'll never have another leaking line again!

 

Its really not hard to get the filter out from what I have read. Just use the strap style filter wrench and you are good to go, and if you are worried about it, use full synthetic oil, and change it every 6000 miles :P

 

If you do oil analsis its mot uncommon to gO 10,000 miles between oil changes

Thats with full syentheric rotella t6 and a good wix oil filter

 

It's still awkward to get to the filter with everything out of the way (SAS), because of the way the oil pan wraps around it. We used to repair a lot of the factory oil lines for the local GM dealer, but not so many anymore.

 

I dont know, from what I have been reading from a lot of other blazer owners, its not that hard, its a lot harder to replace the lines. and to have to do that every 2 years. People have yet to find a good set of "oem" filter hoses that wont leak in 2 years. the only ones that still have the lines that do not leak after replacing are the ones that got hydraulic hose made for them.

 

i used tranny hose and plain ol adjustable clamps on the oem fittings...never a problem after that...been several years.

 

Same here. Some 300 psi 1/2" rubber line from the auto parts store and hose clamps on the stock fittings. Fuel injection clamps would have been a better choice, but we'll see how these hold up. Only a few thousand miles on them, so far, but no leaks yet.

 

Heck its getta take less then 50 psi usually shouldnt take much