Please help me out with this annoying problem
#14
I spoke too soon... It still does it. I found out heading out of town for the weekend. 🤬
But I was surfing another forum and FINALLY found someone else that has had the same problem. It turns out that it's one of the forks inside the transfer case, but I don't know which one (load fork maybe?). Either way it looks like a rebuild is coming soon.
This will make the 5th transfer case in my S-series ownership since 03. I should have bought an Atlas or a Stak for my SFA 95, but this will be my first issue with the NP233
But I was surfing another forum and FINALLY found someone else that has had the same problem. It turns out that it's one of the forks inside the transfer case, but I don't know which one (load fork maybe?). Either way it looks like a rebuild is coming soon.
This will make the 5th transfer case in my S-series ownership since 03. I should have bought an Atlas or a Stak for my SFA 95, but this will be my first issue with the NP233
#16
This is the explanation I got from another forum...
it has nothing to do with the tq converter, transmission or tune. It’s the transfer case. This was 3 trucks ago for me so my memory is a little fuzzy but I believe it was a worn fork that allows it to be between gears when being driven backwards(wheels driving the rotation of the drivetrain-not the engine(not physicaly driving backwards)). But then it realigns when imput torque comes from the engine again. Get a new transfer case, rebuild yours, either way you will solve the problem. I had a pump rub kit in mine, still did it, 2 different issues.
it has nothing to do with the tq converter, transmission or tune. It’s the transfer case. This was 3 trucks ago for me so my memory is a little fuzzy but I believe it was a worn fork that allows it to be between gears when being driven backwards(wheels driving the rotation of the drivetrain-not the engine(not physicaly driving backwards)). But then it realigns when imput torque comes from the engine again. Get a new transfer case, rebuild yours, either way you will solve the problem. I had a pump rub kit in mine, still did it, 2 different issues.
#17
Hmm. Seems weird but who knows. The Np233 is really easy to rebuild, I just went through mine a month or so ago. Rock auto has good prices on rebuild kits.
There's about a million c clips you'll have to remove, which is awful. You can do it with snap ring pliers, that's what I did. I ground off the points to be able to use the wider part. If you can come across some c clip pliers, that would make the job much easier. Think snap ring pliers, but the ends are wider.
There's about a million c clips you'll have to remove, which is awful. You can do it with snap ring pliers, that's what I did. I ground off the points to be able to use the wider part. If you can come across some c clip pliers, that would make the job much easier. Think snap ring pliers, but the ends are wider.
#18
The fella on the other forum was 100% correct! I just got it out of the shop today with the case rebuilt. I feel like I got a good deal having it cost $605 all in. 335 to r&r and 270 for the rebuild. Everything inside is new and the cases hot tanked. The shift fork was completely wasted and the planetary wasn't far behind. He showed me the old parts compared to new ones. The BlaZR2 is back on the road and not afraid to take her anywhere! Thanks again for the help
#20
Thanks. I just closed on my house last week and I'm moving. I have everything packed up and nowhere to work. I paid 270 for the full rebuild. A shop across the lot from the garage that rebuilt it charged me more to pull it and reinstall and fluid. 335. Normally I would have pulled it myself but I was in a spot