Hey fellers.
I gotz a few problems with da Jimmer. If I can't resolve them, than this may be the Jimmy's swan song, a tragic end, so near it's 200k birthday.

I don't WANT to get rid of it, especially because just last month I made a decision to put about $500 in 2 new wheels and front brakes and rotors on it. Plus, this car has all the common-issues resolved, for the most part...after LOTS of work and money.
Long story short, the two issues that are making want to get rid of it are 1., the airbag light is on and I don't know how to fix it (if you know, tell me!) 2., for awhile now, the trans has been making a clunking noise when going into reverse. Last month, the U-joint behind the transfer case broke, leaving the driveshaft dangling. I replaced the u-joint (the other u-joint on the rear driveshaft had already been replaced semi-recently) and was good to go. However, the clunking is still there. Today on my ride to work, while in cruise in 4th gear traveling around 75mph, the car suddenly went from 2400 rpms to about 3300 rpms. I had to turn cruise off to get it to stop. A strange smell came into the cabin while this was happening. Engine temp was fine, all cooling system components were replaced not 3 months ago. Ever since then, throttle response at high speed has been choked and the car almost stalls at idle on start-up. After warming up, it wont almost stall at idle, but it still struggles. My hypothesis is transmission is starting to go out. No SES light was set.

The car is very near 195k miles, and I wouldn't doubt if the fluid and filter have never been changed. But, I don't want to try that if you guys think it's a waste of a good filter and fluid at this point. If I have to look into replacing the trans, I'd rather do so without wasting time on this one if it's a junk trans. This will be my first experience with transmission work other than fluid changes, so let me know your opinion.
Thanks!
~DC

 

Well, the clunking screams u joint to me........maybe check the trans mount and your motor mounts.....those are common !!! it sounds to me there are a couple things happening here, as far as the stalling and revving I say u need to do a fuel pressure test!!!!! If the poppets haven't been serviced or upgraded they can cause many issues..... do a search for fuel system diagnosis , u will find all the info u need to test your pressure, oh and btw, the fuel pressure at idle doesn't mean squat

 

The sudden revs could possibly have to do with a bad TPS (throttle position sensor). At least it sounds to me like the torque converter unlocked on you for some reason anyway. The not wanting to idle sounds like the IAC (idle air control) solenoid isn't working as it should either. There are methods to testing both of these detailed on the forum here.

As for the clunking, is it a 4WD? If so take a look at the fluid level in the transfer case. If the fluid level in the transfer case has been running low the gears could have some excessive wear and the clunking is from the extra play in the gears. If it's a 2WD check the rear u joint very closely and while you're at it double check the yoke on the rear differential (the part the u joint attaches to) and make sure it's tight and that the splines aren't wearing out.

If you do finally end up having to replace the transmission and you chose to go with a reman instead of a used unit check out Rock Auto. I picked up an ETE Reman transmission for my '01 Jimmy for $1,100 with a 3 year unlimited mileage warranty. Shipping was only $150 and that includes the return of the core. I thought it was a pretty damn good deal.

 

so it finally kicked out a code. P0171 and P0174, banks 1 and 2 are running lean. I guess I'll take some time tomorrow and check for a vacuum leak. If I can look up how to check the fuel system pressure as 07nhbpsi advised, I'll do that also. I doubt if the car's fuel filter has ever been changed in 200k miles, I don't know how much that matters though. It certainly wouldn't make things go all of a sudden. The problem comes and goes though, and is especially bad while idling. I'll try to check back tomorrow after I take a closer look. I'm leaning away from thinking it's a bad transmission and more towards thinking that there's a air/fuel problem. There is definite power loss at certain intervals, and others it is fine.

 

Here's an update:
the car broke down on the way to work the other day. It was getting progressively worse mile by mile. By the time I stopped at my dad's work, it was hard to get it up to 25mph. I took his car to my work and then after my shift came back and checked it out. What I discovered is that my PCV valve, the hose connected to it, some wiring, the grommet into which the PCV fits into, and the part on the intake manifold into which the hose coming from the PCV connects were all BURNT. The OBDII codes that were in the system when I left the car were P0171 p0174 and P0101.

Here's a little backstory. When I did the intake manifold gaskets, the EGR tube cracked and I rigged up a repair which has lasted about 30k miles. It looks like the stuff I put in to seal where the tube came apart crumbled and a bunch of heat was entered into the engine bay where it melted components.

Wuddya think? Remove and replace and give her a go?
[IMG][/IMG]
If you're looking at this photo, 4 is gone, 3 is damaged, 2 is gone, and 1 (PCV) is going to have to be replaced. Anyone know where 4 leads to?

My concern is that even with these components being severely damaged, I can't see it making the car be inoperable. Maybe there's something else additional going on. What do you think?

 

Well I can.......u are talking a major vacuum leak!!!!! & 4 is the vacuum line that feeds the reservoir which feed the 4x4,cruise,& your hvac controlsI would search a u pull yard for a new tube to feed your egr valve...otherwise I wanna say it'll cost ya around a 100 at the dealer while u are at the pick and pull u can grab the rest of the melted parts u need

 

Sorry for the delay, everyone. Had some emotional things happen at home recently.
Anyway, I finally got back to the project today. I replaced the EGR tube with a new used one. I see there are several threads up started by people who are having trouble doing this. What I did to remove and replace the EGR tube was to remove that air intake assembly from the box to the throttle body, unbolt the AC compressor and set it aside, and remove the upper radiator hose near the thermostat. I hit the threads on the intake and exhaust side with PB blaster. I unbolted from the intake manifold and then from the exhaust, through the flap in the wheel well. The access to the tube near the exhaust will be made better by removing the driver front wheel.
Anyway, I started the engine after putting everything back together, and you can witness in the video what's happening.
The car will not go more than about 10mph, and throttle response is almost non-existant, as is engine power. There is a LOT of heat coming off of something. Actually, the heat burned a hole right through the upper radiator hose. I drove the car a little bit (this is before the radiator hose hole) and one of the codes I got back were P0300 (multiple cylinder misfire), which is explained by me having unplugged the spark plugs at the coil to put in the new EGR tube. I switched around the plug configuration, cleared the codes, and didn't get any codes back. I did have one other code that showed up before I cleared, and it didn't come back after I changed the plugs, and that code had to do with the MAF.
Here's the video. Let me know what you think.

 

It says video is private......anyhow, are u claiming there is an extreme amount of heat , under the hood??? I would say check the convertor....is it red hot???

 

I just changed it. Check it now.

 

almost sounds like a transmission is going i was losing power also but i lost OD and 3 have you try driving in 3 to see if you have power if not try 2 if you do have power in 1
or 2 but not in 3 or drive. ya need to replace or rebuild your transmission