A reputable member here told me to pressure test the cooling sytem to 15psi, so I rented the tool yesterday pressurized the system to 15psi, and sure enough it was dropping ever so slow, so I looked around, Didn't see anything at first, then I looked underneath, and saw a small puddle, it looked like it was the water pump, (so happy)NOT, it was the intake dripping directly under the a/c compressor! I don't have a problem with doing this job except; pulling the distributer & fuel lines.
What's the bestkind of sealant/silicone am I supposed to use on the front and back of the manifold @ re-assembly? What's the easiest method to remove the old gaskets, any attachments for a cordless drill? I bought the most expensive set of FEL-PRO gaskets-60.00 for the job. I got the procedure installation here in the forum.
Well I'm sure I'll be back with questions as I'll begin ripp'in it down tommorow. You guys have a good Holiday ! Have 1 for me !

 

Make sure you got the gaskets with the metal frame to them! Glad you found the problem.

 

What's the best way to clean upthe removed intake manifold of all kinds of carbon, oil, & crap! I don't have access to a parts washer, any good chemicals other than acetone, that stuff will fry my brain, what little I have ! It's loaded with deposits.

 

Any carbon cleaner will do. Brake cleaner works good as well, but any of these should be used in a well ventilated area. Maybe a few small brushes to get down into the ports. Do not use any fiber rags as they will shred on the rough, as-cast, surface of the intake. Just use some throw away (or wash if you so choose) shop towels.

 

Dawn dish washing soap and a wire toothbrush.
Cleaned mine up nice and pretty like.

Brake Cleaner also works, however it cost $2-$3 bucks a can and you will need at least 2 cans. Plus you still need the wire toothbrush.

Not any dish soap, Dawn specifically. It removes all grease. Just don't use it to wash your vehicle, it will also remove the wax.

 

I used felpro when I did my intake... That was over 5000 miles ago and they seem to be holding. The silicone was included with the intake gaskets when I bought my kit. It was the black silicone witch I believe is more resistant to oil and gas. One more thing that may or may not be mentioned in the how to write on this procedure is the useage of a tap and die tool to clean the thread bores and bolt threads. When I did this I had a 12 pack of miller high life, it made things a little more bearable. Any how... good luck

 

Question; Why is the rear of theintake coolant passages blocked from going flowing through ? The block has both openings there on each side? Also, While cleaning the injectors,w/carb cleaner & a toothbrush i accidently chipped a piece off the the poppet, I ordered a new one 60. ! Are they hard to install? I got a Delphi.

 

The heads are the same, side to side, as such, there needs to be provisions for a water jacket at both ends. There is no need to have a coolant passage all the way across in the back of the motor. Although having air bleeds in the lower intake at these locations would be smart as this is where air gets trapped the most and is the most difficult to get bled out.

If you just broke a piece off of the plastic outer section, I would not worry too much about it. As long as it goes into the intake bung and stays, you should be fine. Putting just one new injector into the injector body could result in a mismatch of flows comparing the one new one to the five other old ones.

 

Sounds good, I'm gonna cancel that order and give it a shot, I was worried about the spray pattern, only a very small piece broke off I'd say maybe (1/16th W x 1/8 L)
Still much cleaning to do however, really not as bad as I may have thought. I'll post a couple pic's tommor, and see what you think. Thanks as always...

 

I guess I would want to see where the piece broke off of. The plastic parts have nothing to do with the spray pattern as that is controlled by the stainless steel nozzle and pintle.