Well I fixed the oil pres problem (I feel bad admitting this but I dropped a bolt that was for the ground on the back of the passenger head while the dist was out and you can guess the rest) and now there are more issues I have. First how can you tell if the timing on the motor is correct? Its close I know but the truck sputters going down the road and I dont know if it is the stock wires/cap/plugs as the engine is not totally smooth when revving in park. Secondly I had to piece e distributers together for the motor because the one out of the original motor chewed up part of the dist gear so I used the one from the 01 motor that I put in but it was missing the metal plate the rotor screwsa onto. This piece is just press fit onto the dist shaft and now when the dist is seated on the engine it takes little effort to spin the rotor and I know it shouldn't move at all.
The third issue is that I relocated the knock sensor as I stated before but it is now into alluminum not medal so does this piece need to be grounded as it only has 1 wire going to it or does it not work this way?

Sorry again for all the q's but thanks for the help

 

Have a look at this thread for tips on getting the engine timed properly:
EDI Engine Timing

As far as grounding the knock sensor, yes, it would need to be grounded. But it should be grounded in the aluminum as well. To make sure, clamp the positive terminal of a multimeter to the + terminal on the battery, then touch the same aluminum piece that the knock sensor is in. If the multimeter shows +12V, then it is grounded fine. If not, then simply run a ground from a bolt on the aluminum piece to a good ground. Now, which aluminum piece did you put the knock sensor into?

 

I used the timing guide already to set it before. Is there anyway to check it to verify it is correct? I'm guessing the piece tht the rotor connects to keeps moving as I stated in the first post. I went out after my post and I removed the cap, spun the rotor a tad and the motor revved great for about 5 seconds and then it sputtered, made a small backfire and then I shut it off. This leads me to believe that this is the problem. I will have to somehow ensure the piece is connected solidly then attack getting the timing right. The computer can only compensate so much right?

I placed the knockl sensor into the front of the intake manifold where there was a plug already. I drilled/tapped a connector I had and screwed the sensor into that and placed it into the manifold. Good or no?????

 

I guess you will find out.. I'm not sure how well the PCM will be able to detect knock from there, but you may be good.

About the timing, how much can you move the rotor?? I have a spare distributor in the garage and can see how solid the rotor is supposed to be to the distributor shaft if you would like...

 

I could spin the rotor 360 degrees i'm sure. When I took it off the other unit it would not move or budge at all. I am sure of that much.

 

So you could move the rotor with the distributor installed in the engine??? That is not right. Sounds like the roll pin on the gear at the bottom of the distributor shaft is sheered...

I just checked the distributor I have in the garage and the rotor is fixed rigidly to the shaft and subsequently to the gear at the bottom. There is some play between the gear at the bottom of the distributor and the gear on the camshaft, but that is very minimal.

If I were you, I would be pulling the distributor out again and checking the gear on the bottom. If you need some pictures of where the gear should be aligned to, let me know.

 

That gear should be more than pressed on. There should be a roll pin in it and the shaft, like kyle said.