If there is oil in the crankcase now, I would leave it there. Suck out all of the junk you can with the shop vac and maybe use a blow gun off of an air compressor (if available) to help get under the balance shaft (blow gun on one side, shop vac on the other). Then spray things down with WD40 to get the rest cleaned up. Lint free rags only. Then drain the oil. Put the plug back in and then dump a few quarts of cheap oil down through the lifter valley flushing the surfaces off again. Drain the oil once you get everything put back together and refill before firing it back up.

As far as the rust removal, I wouldn't get too involved with it. Some 000 steel wool would work. Spray things down with WD40 and hit it with the steel wool. Wipe and repeat if necessary.

 

Ok, Thanks.

There is oil in the crankcase at the moment but, it has a little water in it also from being open and sitting....How much??? I have no idea but the oil is milky.

Can't say enough thanks for all the info...More question to come.

Should I worry about the oil pump?? I looked at the distributor gear and it looks good (no major wear). Just wanna make sure it will be good to go...And can anyone recommend a good oil analysis place?? After I get it back together I want to check and make sure there is not major issues with the bearings.

 

With the bores looking like that, I wouldn't mess with the pump unless you were already pulling the pan for something else. Even then, I'm not sure I would replace it, but it wouldn't hurt.

 

I was/am going to pull the trans to see if the rear main is leaking, cause there is oil all over the tranny...some on the engine too, but I think that was due to the LIM gasket but, I am unsure of it being the RM or the Input Seal on the trans....and since the oil is milky I was thinking of pulling the pan just to see if there is any rust on anything in the bottom end. But, other than that there is no other reason. I will probably just leave it alone and replace gaskets as needed. After I get it running and all the bugs worked out...it will be my Daily Driver...just wanting to cover all my basis.

 

Ok, so I pulled the drivers side head. And found that the Number 1 piston has had some water sitting on it for some time. It's all "caked" up and white with some rust....now I can see the "cross hatching" on all the cylinders just like I posted previously but, as I was cleaning the bores out and rotating the engine I noticed that the number 1 piston was not coming up to the top of the block deck. It is actually about an 1/8" below the deck. So, I think I have a bent rod???


Number 1 piston


Number 4 Piston




This is as high as it will go in the cylinder bore...suggestions???

I am wondering if I need to get all new internals or just replace what is bad.

We can magna flux the block at my work along with the heads, crank and what ever else I will need to check. Just wanting some input on what would be the best thing to do.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Ok, I pulled off the oil pan...Well, I dropped it down as low as I could. And used an inspection mirror to look at the #1 Rod and it is bent slightly. Now, I have 2 questions.

1) Aside from pulling the engine and checking everything...crank, heads, block and rods. Would it be pointless to rebuild this engine seeing how it is not very bad upon initial inspection?? Or would it be better to get an engine from a once running vehicle with around 100k miles and just put that one in and run it??

2) And the photos in post #15 3rd picture...does anyone know why the cylinder bore has the "dull" areas at the 10 o'clock and 1 o'clock position and the cylinder is shiny at the 12 o'clock position?

 

Anyone???

 

Wish I could help you, but I'm surely not an engine man. Seems to me you got one that needs much work, I hope all will turn out well and yo will get lots of use out of it.

I like my 92 S-10 Blazer 4 X 4 4.3 W that I bought new in 92, its been a great ride and its still going strong.

 

Are you sure the rod is bent? Have you checked the TDC piston height and compared it with other cylinders to verify that it is bent?

As far as the discoloration in the cylinder, it could just be from the burn rates. It still appears that the cross-hatching is visible in both areas.

 

swartlkk....No, I have not verified TDC variances yet. But from what I can tell, it "looks" bent.

I will put my dial indicator on it tonight and see what I have, or would using a straight edge with feeler gauges be better??

Ok, I did not even think of the burn rates of the cylinder....because it is on each one of the cylinders.


UPDATE:
I have checked the piston to deck clearance and I have a 3-4mm difference between the #1 cylinder and the rest of the cylinders. 2-4-6-3-5 all have a clearance of about .25mm + or - about .10mm. So, it is bent slightly....so now I am debating what would be best to do...Replace the damaged parts and get new bearings etc...or get a running engine from the salvage yard??