I got inside the steering shaft housing. The lever is released by lifting that metal clip on top inside that allowed a retaining pin to get out of the way.

The wiring all looks new, nothing seems a miss in there, What is that heavy black line that comes in below the switch?

thanks

 

Glad you got that steering column figured out... God that must of been annoying... glad they changed that up... another good idea from gm lol...


sucks that you haven't gotten the main problem fixed yet tho...

 

Thanks, You (or someone) could maybe do me a favor. start your engine and pull one at a time the connectors to the MAF sensor and the intake air temp sensors to see if these are mission critical to the engine running. It might run poorly but I think not die.


also try the MAP (manifold absolute pressure ) sensor. and maybe that thing which I believe is the EGR regulator at the front of the manifold.

My parts are supposedly all good but if one of those is critical I'd take a closer look .


thanks!

 

So I did the ICM test no flashing led. Checked the new cps, no 5 V signal.

Swapped in the old CPS and have good 5v signal and now have good ICM flashing which is supposed to indicate bad coil, but the new coil checks OK for resistance on both primary and secondary .... identical to the old. Tried the old without mounting it and no spark. I did ground it well.

anybody? time to buy yet another coil?

 

That faulty new CPS was AUTEX brand. sku 139617

so where does that tac signal come from with EDI?

Since I don't have tac moving while cranking that should be a good place for me to check if I could figure out where it comes from ....

 

1. How did fuel vapors get in the distributor to blow the cap off? The cap doesn't do that for no reason. Its rare but it happens. Vapors can enter thru a vacuum hose or crankcase up thru the distributor shaft. Outside chance someone put a firecracker on it..

2. When it blew off, the engine was still turning and ignition system making spark. When the coil wire circuit was blown open, the 35 Kv peak worth of high voltage spark had nowhere to go but back into the ignition system. Divide that by the coil ratio of around 60-100 and its a huge voltage dumped on the primary ignition system wiring that can generate hundreds or thousands of volts impulse on the ignition module or engine control computer.

3. Testing an ignition coil with an ohmmeter is meaningless. It's a transformer not a resistor. High voltage items such as that have to be tested live or with a megger. An ohmmeter cannot find a fault where the coil windings arced over in the primary.

Also when everything else has been replaced and it still doesnt work suspect electrical connectors. An oscilloscope is needed to go any further.

 

not. the abundance of available repair parts for the broken cap bolt down holes obviates all that nonsense ^ not. again. it did not blow off. it cracked a mount and broke off a screw head and remained in place. took a bit of trouble shooting to even notice it was loose. any voltage either went to a plug or ground. no increases in voltage could possibly have been created. but thanks for playing not. the coils that step up the pulse have a resistance spec. checking for that informs about things that are and are not wrong. besides, no spark from the coil while having the signal present from the ICM AT THE coil connector .... indicates coil malfunction, unlikely as that seems in this case. if by arced you mean shorted ... that should show up by proper testing. My next door neighbor has a scope and a megger which I have used for other things but it is not indicated at this time. thanks anyway.