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I understand what you're saying. I sure seems like it was the spider injector since I just opened it up and there was fuel pooled up in the corners. I'm probably not willing to put that kind of money into this thing. Maybe if it didn't have other issues. The body is pretty nice though, as is the interior when it's cleaned up, so I was really just hoping to get it going again to either sell or ride out until it really died. I don't have the exact numbers, but I could call the shop in a bit and see if they have anything written down. Here are the pictures though:
I the cylinders on one bank have been washed out from fuel, changing the spider is not going to solve the problem. The damage is already done and the cylinder walls are beyond minor repair. The cheapest possibility (not counting changing the injectors) would be a ring job with oversize rings.
But more than likely you would want to take the block to a machine shop to have it magnafluxed and the cylinders honed. Honestly, if you want to keep the truck I would buy a long-block. You'll have a completely rebuilt engine with a warranty. You'll probably be spending in the neighborhood of $2k (+/- a few hundred). Or you could get a short-block which would be cheaper and basically you just have to move the heads from your old engine to the new one (and a few other things).
But, before condemning the engine you have, I'd want to know what the compression numbers were for each cylinder. I'd also do some of my own testing to insure timing chain didn't slip, etc. The shop stated that the fuel washed out the oil rings, but you'd have to tear the engine down to see if the cylinder walls are good enough just for a ring job. But the minimum you'd want to do is a "crank kit" ( https://www.enginepartsonly.com/1993...EaAumuEALw_wcB ). Link is just an EXAMPLE I grabbed real quick.
Everything depends on how attached you are to the truck, how much you want to spend, if you'll do the work yourself, etc, etc,etc. Personally, I love my '98 ZR2 and I put a long-block in about 40k miles ago.
Again, bottom line, new injectors are alone not going to do anything at all for washed out cylinders. Washed out means the cylinder walls & rings were not being lubricated (basically) because the fuel was washing away the oil and you had metal on metal scrubbing against each other. It is also possible that your main bearings and the other moving components could have been adversely affected if you got a high amount of fuel into the oil.
P.S. There is also the option of a junkyard engine.
Just quoting you here so you see the reply if you didn't before. Anyways, thanks for the advice. Not entirely sure what I'll do next. Can't afford that kind of major work, can barely afford the injectors. So Idk. But I'll update if anything changes.
I the cylinders on one bank have been washed out from fuel, changing the spider is not going to solve the problem. The damage is already done and the cylinder walls are beyond minor repair. The cheapest possibility (not counting changing the injectors) would be a ring job with oversize rings.
But more than likely you would want to take the block to a machine shop to have it magnafluxed and the cylinders honed. Honestly, if you want to keep the truck I would buy a long-block. You'll have a completely rebuilt engine with a warranty. You'll probably be spending in the neighborhood of $2k (+/- a few hundred). Or you could get a short-block which would be cheaper and basically you just have to move the heads from your old engine to the new one (and a few other things).
But, before condemning the engine you have, I'd want to know what the compression numbers were for each cylinder. I'd also do some of my own testing to insure timing chain didn't slip, etc. The shop stated that the fuel washed out the oil rings, but you'd have to tear the engine down to see if the cylinder walls are good enough just for a ring job. But the minimum you'd want to do is a "crank kit" ( https://www.enginepartsonly.com/1993...EaAumuEALw_wcB ). Link is just an EXAMPLE I grabbed real quick.
Everything depends on how attached you are to the truck, how much you want to spend, if you'll do the work yourself, etc, etc,etc. Personally, I love my '98 ZR2 and I put a long-block in about 40k miles ago.
Again, bottom line, new injectors are alone not going to do anything at all for washed out cylinders. Washed out means the cylinder walls & rings were not being lubricated (basically) because the fuel was washing away the oil and you had metal on metal scrubbing against each other. It is also possible that your main bearings and the other moving components could have been adversely affected if you got a high amount of fuel into the oil.
P.S. There is also the option of a junkyard engine.
Update: I finally got the chance to do a compression test. Unfortunately the adapter was too short to test cylinder 4 and too long to test cylinder 3 because the steering column and oil dipstick in the way of either. But all 4 of the others measured between 140 and 150. Unfortunately I also noticed cylinder 4's plug was spotless, so of course the one I can't test would be the likely problem. I'll be tracking down a different adapter today to verify.
Cylinder 4 is dead. I was assured by the shop twice that cylinders werent bad enough to worry. Turns out they didn't actually test all of them to begin with. Should have followed your advice instead of trusting a shop. Sorry about wasting your time. Fortunately I now own a compression tester and know how to use it, so hopefully I won't make that mistake again.
Didn't waste my time at all Bud. I'm actually a little surprised that only one cylinder is bad based off what I heard. Compression gauge was one of my first diagnostic tools. We all start somewhere.
03-27-2018, 05:33 PM
