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Old Oct 3, 2014 | 07:58 PM
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Default Running Problems

I have a 74 k5 blazer if i go to crank it it will start and then if i shift it into drive it will turn off. then when i try to start it again it has trouble starting but will start again then i have to rev it up and put in drive quickly and give it gas right away to keep it from turning off but after driving it for just a minute it will idle and shift without cutting off WHAT MIGHT B THE ISSUE HERE IS THE ENGINE JUST THAT COLD NATURED OR IS SOMETHING WRONG?
 
Old Oct 3, 2014 | 09:09 PM
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What does it have for a carb on it? The Rochester Quadrajet that came on most of them can act pretty quirky when it starts to get old. Leaking well plugs can cause all kinds of problems with starting.

It could also be something wrong with the ignition system. If it still has the points style distributor you may want to consider swapping out the points for an updated setup like Pertronix Ignitor point eliminator kit or jump to an HEI distributor.
 
Old Oct 4, 2014 | 07:43 AM
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It hAs electronic ignition and it has fairly new plugs and wires I'm not sure About the carborator but the engine is a crate 350 that was installed in the 90's
 
Old Oct 4, 2014 | 07:47 AM
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Have you checked to make sure that the timing is set correctly? Too much advance can make it start hard.
 
Old Oct 5, 2014 | 08:44 AM
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I will check that After playing with it yesterday I figured out that if I crank it and let it run for a minute I can put it in drive but when I go to give it has it cuts off
 
Old Oct 7, 2014 | 01:28 PM
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From your description in post #1 it sounds like choke is staying fully closed after initial start, and the engine is loading up with too much gas until the choke has been opened by the spring past the point of being way too rich. This would cause the symtoms I think you are describing (I will paraphrase what I think you are probably trying to say): Engine starts fine but soon begins to run rough and is difficult to keep running at slow engine speed. If it dies I have to press the gas to the floor to get it started again. When warming up it gets progressively better, and when engine is fully warmed up it runs normally. Please tell me if I am not reading you right.

Does the choke pull-off (vacuum actuated) work? It was a very common problem for the choke pull-off diaphragm to start leaking, before fuel injection eliminated chokes.

Way to diagnose? - someone who knows how they work watches the choke and the choke pull-off operation. No magic computer codes to read here!

The choke and choke pull-off also have several adjustments that need to be correct for the engine to start and run well when cold and as warming up. Somewhere I still have an choke angle gauge and hand-operated vacuum pump in my tools. Don't attempt to adjust anything without them.

Good luck,

Les
 

Last edited by LesMyer; Oct 7, 2014 at 01:58 PM.
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 09:15 AM
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Yes this helps. Thanks for the tips
 
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 09:37 AM
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Default Check the timing chain

Originally Posted by btdawgs10
I have a 74 k5 blazer if i go to crank it it will start and then if i shift it into drive it will turn off. then when i try to start it again it has trouble starting but will start again then i have to rev it up and put in drive quickly and give it gas right away to keep it from turning off but after driving it for just a minute it will idle and shift without cutting off WHAT MIGHT B THE ISSUE HERE IS THE ENGINE JUST THAT COLD NATURED OR IS SOMETHING WRONG?
check the timing chain
 
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by btdawgs10
Yes this helps. Thanks for the tips
You are welcome. Let us know what ends up fixing your problem or if you have any more questions.
 

Last edited by LesMyer; Oct 8, 2014 at 02:16 PM.
Old Oct 8, 2014 | 02:23 PM
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repeat
 
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