Running rough!
#21
I'm at a loss. I got the whole engine back together but now it wont start. It'll crank for 2 seconds then die, then repeat that over and over again. It seems to lose power but then if you let off the key and turn it again it'll be cranking at full power again. Any clue what it can be? Fuel pump is working, you can hear it. Car used to crank before this whole job... https://youtu.be/ngw75X0X0iM
#22
Dropped a new battery in. Same exact crank. Dies on 3rd kr 4th turn.
#23
Next up is some kind of compression issue
or valve
or timing
issue
In the engine.
Like if coolant got in a cylinder and wasnt blown out
That is a best case...
Can you turn the engine by hand?
Feel it "hang up" anywhere ?
#24
Next up is a starter (could be getting weak, not to the point of intermittent *click* but sucking all juice out of battery.) BTDT
Next up is some kind of compression issue
or valve
or timing
issue
In the engine.
Like if coolant got in a cylinder and wasnt blown out
That is a best case...
Can you turn the engine by hand?
Feel it "hang up" anywhere ?
Next up is some kind of compression issue
or valve
or timing
issue
In the engine.
Like if coolant got in a cylinder and wasnt blown out
That is a best case...
Can you turn the engine by hand?
Feel it "hang up" anywhere ?
Besides all that im super glad I got the gasket fixed! Now to flush out the green coolant out and swap it with dex Cool to save my gaskets.
#25
Well I got it running about an hour ago. It was the distributor! The oil shaft or whatever it is below the distributor was turned a bit, my friend said there was only one way it went in. So it was about 45 degrees off. I found out how to align it today so I did it myself and it started right up! No more overheating problems and no more smoke! Another happy Jimmy back on the road. Well... Nearly... There are a few parts that werent put back the same as it was. The throttle body never used to fully close. It was just really close to closed. Since its closed now whenever I press the gas it jerks forward since it takes a bit of force to get it open. And also I hear a noise under the hood like escaping air. I think its the hose thats supposed to go to the master cylinder brake since its dry rotted and isnt going to anything. The ABS light is on but the brakes work. Just are a bit more stiff. The throttle body I think maybe adjust the cable to tbe throttle body and make it just partially open? Or is it supposed to be closed? As soon as it closes the engine hesitates so I dont think its supposed to close... And the master cylinder line... Is it supposed to make an escaping air sound like a tire losing air after pulling out a nail?
Besides all that im super glad I got the gasket fixed! Now to flush out the green coolant out and swap it with dex Cool to save my gaskets.
Besides all that im super glad I got the gasket fixed! Now to flush out the green coolant out and swap it with dex Cool to save my gaskets.
As to the brakes and air sound.. got mine back less than 5 days ago, was new brake booster. Drove mine for like 3 months with no vacuum assist (power) brakes.. it probably is the brake booster, especially if you are not losing any fluid. Cost $450 parts and labor on mine.. paid cash, to avoid tax.
#26
I am happy I was wrong as to your engine. I would never have thought Distributor, but I hear all sorts of reports about how new ones with thick meaty gear make truck run like new etc.. I am happy for you!
As to the brakes and air sound.. got mine back less than 5 days ago, was new brake booster. Drove mine for like 3 months with no vacuum assist (power) brakes.. it probably is the brake booster, especially if you are not losing any fluid. Cost $450 parts and labor on mine.. paid cash, to avoid tax.
As to the brakes and air sound.. got mine back less than 5 days ago, was new brake booster. Drove mine for like 3 months with no vacuum assist (power) brakes.. it probably is the brake booster, especially if you are not losing any fluid. Cost $450 parts and labor on mine.. paid cash, to avoid tax.
#27
granted thats shop price, iirc the price for a new booster is around 120 if you send your old one in as core.
#28
Doesn't the shop do the same thing, they send off the old one unless you say you want to keep the old one?
#29
They typically do, but they also charge you in labour and use whatever parts they please (if it s a good shop Delco reman/new production units) unless you give them a part to put in.