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P.S. I wanted to ask George about a possible cause of these symptoms but then I realized this would hijack the thread. So jnstead I'll just sit back, follow along, and wait to ask later. LOL
Originally Posted by Shippiestshipper
Lol, well, the way I was raised, no one is entitled to free help and no one owes you any help so I am happy as a pig in **** that he is even taking his time to help me, so as long as I (if it can be figured out) can figure out my problem still at the end, feel free to jump in and ask him whatever you'd like.
OK, only since you asked, thought I had heard of similar symptoms when a catalytic converter has gotten clogged. This can happen when the internal honeycomb structure breaks apart. And as I think on it, I once had a code for a bad O2 sensor. Turned out the sensor code was thrown because it was fouled with carbon due to raw gas being dumped into my intake due to a leak in the fuel injection in the 92 I owed at the time. Again, I defer to George on this. He's good at diagnosing things.
Yeh I had a old Ram 318 that going down the road one night the oil light came on blinking, I panicked and pulled over and checked the level and the level was fine got back in to drive away and the car wouldn't do past 20 mph at most even on the floor so i limped it home (I'm an idiot, I know that now but didn't have cell phones then and would've been at least a 6-7 mile walk to any place that might would have a pay phone. I got home and idk why but my first thought was valves so I pulled the valve covers and checked for stuck valves and lash and all and that was fine so i checked for clogged air inlet or air box and still nothing so I had a friend I raced with that was the Chrysler east coast master trouble shooter (he traveled to dealerships when they had a vehicle (usually under warranty) that they couldn't figure out a problem with and he'd figure it out and fix it, so I called him and told him what happened and what I had done and first thing he says is start it and walk back to the exhaust tip, have someone rev it, can you block the tip with your foot without it blowing your away or off? I said,..... actually I can... I can completely hold the exhaust gas back. He said get under it and remove the cat and it'll be fine, your cat is clogged. This was the first vehicle I had that had modern FI and a converter and such. so, like AN IDIOT I crawled under and cut the cat off.... well the O2 sensor was in the corner where it expanded to go up and form the converter case so.... the bung the O2 mounted in was cut off with that section (again, never had newer vehicle before so had no idea it was at all important lol) then went to drive it a crossed to the next down to a buddies muffler shop and have him gut it and weld it back on (I'm from the great state of Alabama where we don't have ANY form of god awful extortionist inspections and emissions ever at all so it didn't matter as long as i got the O2 back in the exhaust so it could read. The drive there was a bucking, slow, crappy bronco ride because as I learned.... that O2 is important if you want to drive it! lol sorry, a bit long winded I know just think how stupid I can and could be is funny. I don't THINK my problem could be the cat only because randomly, when it wants to it will run perfectly normal but usually only for a few seconds to MAYBE if you're really stretching it, 2 minutes. but it doesn't SEEM to matter if its operating temp, cold, or in between although USUALLY when you first start it in the morning its running pretty decent for the first couple minutes. I want to say i was getting somewhere last night just messing with stuff when I pulled the line off the PCV, its still acting up but i could swear it was doing in the better direction for a bit after I messed with it but it wasn't like oh its running perfect again so could've been my imagination.
I apologize for being an idiot, but I think I need to order a better scanner to get the readings you want because I didn't see the exact acronyms you used on the live data screen but saw similar ones so I took them down and ill list them below, if I am correct and just need to get a better scanner tell me and as soon as I can get one ill run the thing and get the exact ones you said.
We can at least get some stuff done with that scanner, including fuel trims. On any given bank at any given RPM you need:
ST FTRm%X1
LT FTRM%X2
where X is 1 for the driver side bank and 2 for the other.
besides, not quite having all eight numbers, the fuel system is still in open loop which means that it’s not yet being controlled by the O2 sensors. I see from the engine temperature that it looks on the coolish side, so try running the truck and warming it up to get it closer to normal operating temperature and see if it converts over to show that the fuel system is closed not open then repeat the numbers.
Ok, will do. I already employed a old kart racing trick and I have a piece of plexiglass blocking about 60% of the radiator because this thing always runs cool, it's always ran like 140-160 I believe, because the gauge isn't scaled directly where it sits that's a guess but it's definitely always on the pretty cool side so that piece of plexiglass was to help with heat in the winter but still only gets it to maybe 170? i guess it could get up to 180 but I've never seen it that warm. I'll get to that later today when everyone is at lunch or something.
If your dash temperature gauge is accurate then it’s a thermostat problem not a radiator problem because the thermostat will just stay closed until you get up to operating temperature regardless of how good or bad the radiator works.
I've boiled and checked the thermostat and pressure on the hoses for when it opens and closes, its opening and closing normally its just, like it works so well that the damn thing just barely stays right at opening temp and opens closes frequently. The air dam helped so it at least stays just above opening temp so everything is working it just has a hell of a cooling system and just stay right on the bottom end of operating temp.
