hi, i was told by two mechanics that my TPS is not 'set right'. (its running hi and lo). this is after i put a new one on there. also, after i put the new one on there the 'service engine soon' light came on.

so i was wondering if there is a proper way to install these things?

all i did was take the old one off and put the new one on just like that.

ive been looking on the internet for steps on installing these properly but i cant find anything. i did find a few sites but they are for different cars, not blazers or even chevys.

so is there a proper way to do this? and how do i adjust a TPS if that is necessary? thanks

1998 chevy blazer LS 4x4 4dr v6 4.3L

 

There's no adjustment. Used to be, back in the eighties.
You can measure it for yourself: Should transit smoothly from about 1 v to nearly 5.
Outer wires gnd and 5v, center is the variable output.
Main thing is did you keep the old one? Next best thing is take it back where you bought it and have them scan the TPS while you move the throttle.
I could probably 'name that brand' if it's bad.. but why bother, they keep us in commentary!

 

thanks, actually i found the problem.

atf is leaking into the t-case and so im going to have the seal(s) replaced. (wish i could do it myself) but i do have a question:

my 4x4 high isnt working so while the t-case is removed, do you have any suggestions on what to look for to get the 4x4 high to work again?

thanks. 1998 chevy blazer LS 4x4 4dr v6 4.3L

 

Your ATF leak into the transfer case is caused by a leaking vacuum switch on the transfer case. $11 part and 15 minutes to replace it. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...eyword=600-500 Once it's replaced, the seals might seal up on their own and stop leaking fluid past them. More than likely replacing the vacuum switch will fix your 4WD problem too.

 

captain hook, how do know for sure it would be the leaking vacuum switch for sure? what can i do to check it? actually ill just replace it and see.

but where exactly is it located and what switch or hose am i looking for?

by the way, when it comes to fixing cars im a fool so my heart inclines to the left. lol. thanks captain

 

The vacuum switch is oriented above the fluid level in the transfer case. It has vacuum applied to it at all times. The seal inside the switch deteriorates over time and leaks vacuum into the transfer case, above the fluid. The transfer case is sealed from the transmission by 2 seals and a gasket. The vacuum created in the transfer case sucks transmission fluid past both seals and into the transfer case which increases the fluid level in the transfer case. If the fluid level reaches the vacuum switch, fluid is pulled into the vacuum system for the 4WD and HVAC. If/when this happens all components need to be cleaned out. In the image below you can see the vacuum switch with the 3 black vacuum line fittings, (the splined shaft goes to the front differential). On your 4 door, you can get right at it to replace it. The 3 vacuum lines are in a single connector that is keyed so you can't mes it up, (only goes on one way). 15/16" deep socket and a ratchet gets right at it. Adjust fluid levels after you're done.




EDIT: Dorman makes this part and markets it in two different product lines: The Dorman # is 600-500 and the HELP! # is 49315. Same identical part, different package.

 

ok, i found it, the three bundled hoses. problem is im going to need a fancy wrench to get to it, i cant even see it, just feel it. any tips on how to get it out of there? ive been looking on the internet havent found any tips to get it out yet.

also, i noticed a hose while i was under there. its coming from the from end of the truck then it just lays over the transmission pan. its cut, its and open end hose just laying there.

is that normal, like its a dump hose for something in excess or should i look in to that? i felt and looked around and i dont see anything that it supposed to connect to. thanks

 

ok i see how to get it out im good. but im still concerned about that hose that isnt going to anything

 

Use a 15/16", 3/8" drive deep socket, and a ratchet. Not much room but you can get right on it, loosen it and unscrew it by hand.

The 3 lines are routed as follows:
One goes up to the rear of the engine and connects to a vacuum Tee. That one is the vacuum source from the engine.
The second one runs up to the transfer case vent pipe, (you can see it in the image just above the vacuum switch) and Tee's to another line that runs up alongside the transmission dip stick tube and dead ends with a filter in the end of the line.
The third line snakes around and connects to the axle actuator under the battery tray.

 

ok, thats sounds great and easier than i thought but when i put the three hoses back on, does each hose have to be put back on in the same exact fitting that they came off of?

and im still concerned about that lone hose thats not connected to anything. thank you so much