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Trans hard shift after highway runs

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Old 05-09-2012, 02:23 PM
red98grandamse's Avatar
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Default Trans hard shift after highway runs

I was in the middle of searching when the search engine broke and won't return results for me, so I'm just going to post. Trans is perfect in town (30-40 mph), but if I take it up to 55-65mph for more than 20 miles or so it starts acting up some. It shifts fine while on the highway, but upon accelerating from a stop sign/redlight at the end of the offramp (from a stop), there is an extremely hard 1-2 shift. As in, I feel like I got rear-ended. The first time I've noticed this happening was right after the pcm and part of the main harness was rewired. (long story, but some valve apparently violently went out and somehow the harness was right there near the hole and the exhaust from said hole melted parts of the harness, thus shorting out the pcm). This issue also caused the ignition module to fry and munted the cap and rotor.

98 blazer automatic, auto4wd, 101k miles.

Bracing for the worst, I've already put 2500 into this pos in the 16 months that I've owned it. She's getting scrapped if I have to do a trans rebuild/replacement.
 
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:43 PM
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My guess is one of the solenoids in the pan is bad. I believe there are two on the valve body that control shifts.
Man if you have put $2500 into your Blazer in 16 months that is only $156/month. Where can you buy a car or truck for that little of money. The last truck payment I had was in 2004 & it was $560 on a 0% interest loan.
Your way better off keeping your Blazer & fixing it in my opinion.
 
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Old 05-10-2012, 09:29 AM
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I haven't mentioned that this vehicle is financed right now, so I do have a monthly payment on it.Which, is quite significant. So where can I find something better for more than twice the $156/ month the repairs have cost? Plus, both doors are sagging, she needs a pitman arm and a tie rod. I don;t know if those will cause my torsion bars to be all wonky, but when I crawled under it to look into the tbar crank, i noticed that the drivers side keybolt was cranked all the way while the pass side had over an inch to spare..... The pitman arm and tie rod are both bad on the DS front. This coupled with the trans is atleast another $1200-1500 worth of work (which is a nice downpayment on a car that should be way under $300 a month for payments and would hopefully not need nearly as much. I'm just a little frustrated with this thing and am about to find a representative to help me call it a lemon.
 
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