Howdy,
This is going to be my rebuild thread. A few days ago I've finally received a 4L60E transmission with 3-4 shot. I got it dust cheap with the intention of rebuilding.
The typical 3-4 malfunction aren't serious. Usually the hydraulic pressure doesn't build up so the clutch won't fully engage and get burned. Another possibility is the flex plate behind the clutch pack flexes and doesn't equally support the clutch, so it may get burned.

I am still considering which option to follow:
1. Rebuild on generic, genuine components, replacing the faulty and out of tolerance items. Result - a safety backup transmission for driving my Blazer for another decade.
2. Rebuilding using performance pack from Sonnax and Raybestos. Estimated cost exceeding $1k2 up to $2k. Once rebuild, I might then adding some horse power to my Vortec 262 without worrying on how my transmission will handle that.
Yet, the decision isn't taken, I am going to fully assess the condition of what I've got first and estimate the expenses.

I am following the "GM 4L60/4L60E Rebuild Procedures" by Cliff McCormick The very first odd I've found is that the mentioned manual doesn't specify tightening torques, so probably I'd have to use another sources of information too. Any tips?

And another, equally important question: what assembly gels do You advise? I've found two or three brands I cannot find locally here in Poland. Is there anything widely (world-widely) known? LOL and don't ask me what Google throws when asking for "tranny gel" phrase :P

Keep You updated, Mike

 

If you cannot find specific torque values for the fasteners, you can ask and I can try to find them in my 1999 GM service manual for you.

 

So, in general, I have the main parts of the transmission disassembled, wrapped in plastic waiting to find some spare time to continue.

Pulling the pump out wasn't easy, as in my case there was no groove for the puller on a shaft, but I can tell that prying it with a thick piece of wood did the job without scratching the surface.

Two days ago I've found my front brake pads gone, so while placing an order for them I've already ordered some spares for the transmission. The items I have no doubts I'll replace them, i.e. kevlar band, smart shell, pinless accumulator piston and some of the gaskets.

Now I have a hard nut to crack with choosing the right path to follow with the essential/expensive parts:
1. Valve body. I am supposing that finding a shop that has a set of appropriate reamers to machine the valve bores for Sonnax upgrades would be nearly impossible. I am leaning to get the already re-manufactured body. Generally, there are two options: performance / standard. Any input of reliable source is highly welcome.
2. input drum that doesn't have the flexplate and is capable of storing more clutch rings is a tempting, but an expensive option too.
3. sonnax planetary gear (input carrier) replacement with 2.85 ratio - same as above

...the hard nut is to choose which way to follow. I don't like half-measures on one side, but then, blowing my wallet doing a premium build wouldn't be good either (yeah, probably later on I'd be looking to get a supercharger LOL) I'd rather to keep the common sense. Any input with tips is welcome.

 

That video gave me a next level of confidence:

 

Mike - I know that you have the pump out but every auto I have tore down inside of some of the pump attachment bolt holes were threaded for a puller - I fabed up two little slide hammer pullers just for that use - maybe worth a look for future reference .....

 

@odat LOL Funny thing is I've been thinking they could be threaded for the puller. Eventually I must have been looking into the ones that wasn't
First I've cleaned the front. Then I kept slightly hammering the "lips" ends to rotate the pump left and right while prying with a chunk of wood through the filter socket.

Today I've collected my order with the brake pads I have to do and already collected some preciouses:

I am nearly convinced to follow the performance build option. Well, maybe without a transbrake feature
Btw. is RockAuto still giving the free magnets? My last parcels did come without, As far as I remember they were put into the invoice envelope. Initially I put that on the Post Office staff, who pulls the invoice for customs clearance with a sticky fingers, but my las parcel came with DHL and still no magnet for my collection

 

Hey Mike, keep posting about this build and keep up with the photos! I for one am definitely following it. It's interesting.

Are you planning to do anything with custom TAP cell and other transmission programming in the PCM? If you're not familiar with it, the PCM varies the line pressure to adapt and give correct feel for shift points. As an example of what the PCM can do, the 4L60e (same trans as in the Blazers) in my 2004 Chevrolet Avalanche has a tow button on the end of the gearshift. When depressed, transmission changes dramatically from slush box to performance type shifting - shift points, shift firmness, etc. It seems like PCM reprogramming could also be an important part of building a heavy duty 4L60e. Certainly it will affect how the transmission performs in the end. If you're interested in looking at the TAP cells your PCM has programmed for shifting your current transmission, they can be displayed with Car Gauge Pro (can't reset them, but you can view them).

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...essure-systems

Also I know you need to be careful about the type of friction material used in the torque converter. There have been several types, the last being carbon fiber to take heat of constant slipping in EC3 systems (they never fully lock up). My 2001 is definitely a PWM EC3 system. I would imagine a 2000 Blazer is the same.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...-modifications

 

Thanks Les for Your input. Especially that I haven't found any info on TAP solution yet. Quite simple in theory, yet probably effective. I have lots of reading in front of me. Good thing is that I don't have to rush, my Blazer is still in tact. I am going to carry this out step by step, starting from the "high power" part like input housing & carrier, clutch packs and so on. Meanwhile I'll read more on valve control block and eventually order an already modified one. Buying all the necessary reamers hardly makes sense - they cost a small fortune, and I won't use them over again. I believe it's better if I leave that to a shop in US and get all the upgraded block. They cost around $450.

Generally speaking, AT aren't popular in my country. As for example, people I know would rather choose BMW diesel manual transmission that is capable of handling 1000whp without any alterations (except the kevlar clutch, but it's a clutch) and costs approximately about $800. That is probably 1/3 of the expenses of rebuilding 4L60E on full upgrades.

I am struggling to keep the common sense here. with all the possible upgrades, the sky (or wallet) is the limit. A common sense for me is to rebuild a quality transmission. Maybe look for an intake that could go with the supercharger. Maybe meanwhile I'll find V8 for a swap. And - maybe - I'll look for ECUMASTER standalone controller (might be a must for V8 swap). But I would rather stay below 400hp, as the racing setup has nothing to do with fuel economy. Going further is asking of adrenaline & unexpected problems. Like torque converter ones You wrote above, capability of diffs and axles, and many, many more. Still, I'd prefer to be on a safe side...

By the way, is this one good for rebuild?
https://www.redlineoil.com/assembly-lube

 

First thing I did was to weld the holding support for the transmission:

I've made a few mistakes here First is that I've welded it in way, where the center of rotation isn't the center of mass. Therefore, rotating the transmission isn't handy. But I can live with that. The second one - I should have weld the nuts stronger to the profile. I eventually put the welding joints on their sides. I have used the 20mmx20mmx2mm thickness profiles, they seem to do the job. Anyway, I am happy with the end result. My inspiration here were the brackets that are sold for over $150 on ebay.
So, the transmission landed into the bracket, I've put the box underneath, as there was still some oil dripping from the inside. I've started dropping the oil pan and generally doing things as described in the manual I have.

The manual mentioned in earlier post has tons of photos, which at a first glance may seem overload the user with informations, but while carrying out the disassembly process are a self explanatory. While going through, I've noticed my input shaft longitudinal play is .0375" and lateral one .006".
Slowly tearing it apart, I've filled in a big shelf of main parts wrapped in plastic. I am doing this rebuild in the meanwhile, so it may take several months, so I prefer to keep everything together and protected.



So here's a photo how it looks today:



Today I've extracted the output shaft, and have to fabricate the press to a return spring compressor.
A good news found in the movie a post above is that the stock output shaft are not necessary to upgrade, they can withstand a wheelie.

 

MIke, AFAIK RED Line makes good stuff. This product is for engine assembly. Good break in oil is also important for seating new rings (Like Lucas 30W).

If you are looking for auto trans assembly lube, I believe the pros just use ATF and Vaseline.

Looks like you're off to a great start!