Sure, the cap could be the problem, along with a dozen other things. But the top two things you should do is first retrieve the trouble code(s) and then (if that doesn't get you pointed in the right direction), do a fuel pressure/leakdown test as previously mentioned. You really can't assume the fuel pressure is good on these trucks. I know Autozone is selling a real cheapy code reader for about $20 right now. That's good enough. You have the internet to tell you what the code means. Or, for about another $20 you can order a dongle off Amazon that, combined with a free phone app, will provide loads of info on how your truck is operating as well as pull the code for you.. There are guys on here that can tell you a lot on using the dongle. I have one but I hardly ever used it because I use another tool. The one I bought a couple years ago is a BAFX and downloaded an app called Torque Pro that it talks to. I'll leave it to the other guys & gals to refer you to the dongles. But there are dozens and dozens out there. You really need that code and to do the fuel pressure test. Below in my signature block is a link that goes through the process by one of the best guys ever on here named Captain Hook.

 

I couldn't get it started to take it to get the codes. If it was fuel related would it even run at all? I'll see if i can get a code reader and fuel pressure gauge this weekend. The way it sounds when trying to start it makes it sound like a timing issue. A new distributor cap made it worse. I took the upper intake off and hooked the fuel lines back up and plugged the injector plug back in and had someone turn the key to kick the fuel pump on while I checked for leaks. I didn't see anything leaking but i changed the regulator anyway. Maybe there are poppet valves that are stuck and not letting fuel into the cylinders. But still if it starts it runs fine. When i cut it off and immediately try to start it again it will still have the same problem trying to start. Maybe its not building enough pressure to start it like it should. If it wasn't building enough pressure why will it start after about 5 minutes of trying? It has i think 170 something thousand miles so maybe it jumped time. Or maybe the p.o. did something with the distributor and didn't set it back in right. You're right that it could be a lot of things but I'm leaning towards timing. That was my first thought when i tried to start it before i bought it. I'll check fuel pressure and get the codes this weekend and go from there.

 

Once you have the code, we can help more. Get the loaner pressure set up from the auto parts store. Also, regarding it being worse with a new cap, make sure you have the spark plug wires hooked up correctly at the cap. A LOT of folks make the mistake of reversing #1 & #3. Very common mistake. #3 wire goes closest to the front of the truck on the cap, then #1, then #5.

 

The truck shouldn't have to be running to get the codes, they should be stored from the last time it was running(assuming it was having the issue at that time) with the key in the on position you should be able to scan it.

 

I triple checked the wires and they're right. And yes it had the same problem when i got it running and let it run for about 30 minutes yesterday.

 

Honestly if you're going to give it a few days I would (in your shoes) get one of the dongles instead of the code reader. Maybe you could even get one by the weekend if you have Amazon Prime. Like I said, I don't have much experience with them because I use a different tool. But I believe for under $100 you could get the dongle, and paid app and you would be able to see your misfires live, O2 sensors, fuel trims, pull codes, and I think some might even do the crank relearn also. You'll have to do some searching on the forum to see for yourself. I'm just not the guy that can be of much help on what you want to get. But if you figure cost to go to the shop to have the relearn done, you might even break even. And, you would have the ability to have a ton of troubleshooting abilities for the future. Grab a cup of coffee and do some searching on the forum. Use terms like "fuel trims" "Torque Pro" "Elm" and you'll find some threads.

 

Got a cheap scanner and pulled the codes.

First code: P0452
Did have a bad seal on the gas cap but i replaced it. Just don't remember if that was before or after clearing the codes.

Second code: P1345
As bad as it is trying to start it im going to say it jumped time.

Is there a way to check if the chain jumped without taking the cover off and looking at the gears?

 

I doubt the engine jumped time. P1345 99% of the time indicates the distributor is installed incorrectly. Did you remove the distributor while you were doing the other work? If the distributor is installed a tooth or more off and your Check Engine light is on, it will throw P1345.

 

If you did remove the distributor, read and follow Captain Hook's directions in the second post of this thread https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...uestion-83333/ . When you take it to have the relearn done, hzve them set the cam retard also. Or you can get one of the dongles I was mentioning before and do it yourself. But it's going to need to be done. To answer your question, you cannot accurately check the crank/cam timing without taking off the timing cover. Just follow Captain Hook's directions to the "T" and you should be in better shape. It is possible you have a bad or loose CMP sensor or other circuit problem. Bad dizzy and a couple other things, but more than likely the distributor is not installed correctly.

 

I didn't even take the wires off the cap. I didn't have a chance to try to check the position of the distributor after work today because my wife had to go to the store and I got volunteered to baby sit. I'm messing with this thing out in my muddy back yard so i kinda need decent weather to do much of anything. It's supposed to be warm tomorrow after work so hopefully I'll be able to get #1 tdc and check the where the rotor button is pointing.