Ok, so the distributor was not removed. Here are some other things to check:

1. Make sure the distributor itself is not moving. Without forcing it, see if you can turn the the distributor. It will only turn a fraction of an inch either way, but it shouldn't move at all. Make sure the hold down bolt is in place and is secure.

2. Remove the distributor cap and gently see if the rotor will turn on it's shaft or is loose.

3. Check to see if the CMP sensor is loose.

4. Trace the wire for the CMP & CKP sensors the best you can looking for rub through, etc. Maybe while it's running move the CKP wires back and forth (gently) and see if all the sudden it runs better.

Possibly you need a new distributor. And perhaps you are correct and there is excessive free play in the timing chain or it jumped time.

 

I'm frozen now but i got the #1 tdc and took the cap off and the rotor was past the 6 on the distributor. So obviously the p.o. took it out and put it back wrong. Now i have to get another spark plug because i broke that one getting it out. I'll be back tomorrow with the results. Thanks for the help.

 

Put a new plug in it and it fired right up. Idles a little rough but that's probably because it needs the crank relearn and the distributor adjusted better. I didn't think the p.o. would have even messed with the distributor but i guess i was wrong. But i was right about it being out of time. I should have checked that first. Thanks for all the help.

 

Glad to hear. That code reader already made its money for you, didn't it? Time is money. Plus imagine if you had took that timing cover off searching for a timing problem that wasn't there! Those covers are one time use, so you would have ended up spending $50 or so just to replace the cover. If you really want to get into DIY repairs, do some research on here and get one of those dongles. You can do your own cam retard and I think even the crank relearn (research) and not step foot in the shop. A couple other notes:

-If you disconnected your battery or your Idle Air Control (IAC) at all during your repairs your IAC valve is in default mode and needs to be reset. Simple, turn the key on for 10 seconds, then off for 5 seconds, then start the truck. Let it idle until it reaches operating temp.

-Get the cam retard and crank relearn done asap.

- If you don't know when last tune-up was done, be a good idea to do it. Only use AC Delco parts for that. These trucks are very particular about the secondary ignition parts.

-Remove your MAF and clean it with Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner (DON'T use brake cleaner or the like). Be very careful of the little resistors in the MAF. You can easily damage them. Inspect the resistors carefully to make sure they are still attached and not broken. Before you spray look at the resistors to see if they are dirty or "fuzzy". The more dirty they are the more your cleaning them will improve performance.

-Look at your throttle body throat and plate and if there is any carbon build up, clean it up real well. If you do have to clean it you'll want to reset your IAC again. So you might want to do the IAC reset after you do all the cleaning.

-If your air filter is dirty replace it.

Good luck!

 

I've been repairing my vehicles since i bought my first car. I've pulled and swapped engines, replaced crankshaft and bearings, head gaskets, intakes, timing, transmission, rebuilt transmission, transfer case, hubs and the list goes on. Been around it my whole life. It does help having stuff to narrow it down but if i don't know the history of a vehicle and i plan on keeping it i'd rather replace stuff and hope the brand new part ain't bad.

I didn't know about the iac so I'll try that. I tried to have the relearn done but it wouldn't read full throttle. And the guy checked the timing and it was between 17 and i think 23 like it said it was supposed to be. It was showing cylinder 4 & 6 misfire. I didn't have to pay anything for that. When i got home i plugged my scanner in and got the p0452 and p0300. While i was at the shop i noticed the rear drivers side brake was leaking fluid. When i checked it out, that elusive metal line from the rear center hose to the caliper hose was rusted through at the fitting. Had to get an actual mechanic at autozone to find the right line to replace it. While i was putting the new line on i noticed that apparently the p.o. just changed the fuel pump and they didnt put the fill hose back on. I wonder how much gas i lost when i put $15 in it. They must have had problems getting it started and replaced the fuel pump, distributor cap and rotor and the plugs and gave up when the starter broke.

Anyway.... After i put the fill hose back on i started it and i still have that p0452. I changed the evap purge sensor (or whatever its called) on the intake because it was cracked at the bottom but it didn't get rid of the code. Thats all I'm doing about that because i guess it won't affect the way it runs.

The p0300 code went away and is now the p0304. I'm guessing its because I didn't get an AC delco cap and i don't know what the rotor button is and if all the plugs are the same they're the cheap autolite copper plugs. I don't remember what wires i got but they're autozone's cheapest.

My next clear day I'm going to bleed the brakes and try putting the other distributor cap on and see if that one makes it run any better.

I bought this thing for $850 because they said all it needed was a starter and its getting closer and closer to being someone else's problem. At least it will be running and drivable if i sell it. I don't plan on it but things happen.

 

Oh and would dielectric cleaner be ok to clean tha maf? I have little bit of that and i don't know how much of the maf cleaner i would actually use.

 

Probably would work. Why experiment with something else to save $5 and potentially hurt a $100 part?

P0304 is a diagnostic trouble code seen when a misfire is detected in cylinder 4.
Replace the plug and wire.
4 is the middle one on the pass side.
You might have cracked it when replacing it due to the awkward angles required on these vehicles to R&R plugs.
Or the plug wire was weak and handling it damaged it.
Or it's not on tight on one end.

If that doesn't fix it you'll need to do a compression check on all 6 cylinders to see if the compression on 4 is lower than the rest.

The P0452 is what I consider a nuisance code. Who really cares if a tiny bit of gasoline vapor is leaking through a pin hole? If you want to chase it I suggest starting with the connector on the tank since you state the PO change fuel pumps. The tank sensor may not have been correctly reconnected or the connector damaged.
Wait a while before doing anything, it might clear itself after a few drive cycles since you fixed the hose. Which has to be air tight for that DTC to turn off. Look at the vent hoses, also.

 

Didn't attach the fill hose??? Just when I thought I'd heard everything. . Olddeerslayer is on the money. But it's interesting that you showed misfires on 4 & 6 AND had a crack in your EVAP Purge Valve/Solenoid housing. As you saw the purge valve sits right above 4 & 6. So if that crack was causing a vacuum leak, that might have been the reason for the misfires.

 

The fill hose was literally just sitting about halfway up on the connection on the tank. I'm surprised i got any in the tank at all. I think after i changed that evap thing the misfire codes went away but still had the other and it still accelerated a little rough.