I was also wondering if the guys who had it before me...adjusted the computer, to compensate for the fuel leaks to have it run. Maybe I need to have it adjusted to a proper setting?

I have an appt with a guy a block over from me with a repair shop next week. I would just like to get it running and not have to do that.

 

You can definitely start it with the air cleaner off. Just put a golf tee into any vacuum lines that run to the carb or to the intake manifold so that you do not have a vacuum leak.

Now, the primary mixture screws are located in the front of the carb in the base plate. Since your carb is so wonderfully saddled with all of the EPA crap, you will likely have to remove some caps. And even once those caps are out, the mixture screws are likely the 'double D' type which is somewhat of a pain to adjust without the proper socket. The typical initial setting is 2-1/2 turns from seated. CLICK HERE for some pictures.

 

Well...lucky enough the guy would has these built or rebuilds them, has them drills out already. Off to get the proper socket. I'll let you know how it turns out.

BTW...I like how you know I would have some golf tees, Grip it n Rip it!

 

Okay...so I set the carb mix screws to 2 1/2 turns out. Still just cranks and never turns over. When I put the push the accel all the way down it goes to start and then I get a puff of white smoke out of the carb.

I was reading in the manual and just thought I would check the rotor at TDC. It isn't lining up with the #1 wire on the cap???

From what I know this is incorrect...so I need to rotate the crank 360, right? Why would it be so far off??

 

How far off is it?

 

On the other side of where it's supposed to be. I followed the instructions to move it from the manual. Now it lines up with the number one wire but it still won't start. I don't think it could have jumped all the way around, do you?

Should I just move it back to like it was?

 

Sounds like you might not have been at TDC #1 on the compression stroke... I doubt it jumped 180* out of time.

 

The mark that lines up with the timing tag is directly associated with #1 correct? So if the mark is on 0 the rotor should line up with the #1 on the dist cap.

It was directly across from that. I moved the crank and reinstalled the cap so it was lined up with the number 1 wire but it didn't seem to make a diff.

Should I moved it back. Like I said I have an appt on Tue morning to take it into a guy around the corner. He is a friend of a friend and has the same truck. And an 86. We are going to trade work so it's not costing me too much.

I am stumped but not giving up.

 

The crankshaft turns twice for every one revolution of the cam/distributor. So the mark on the balancer could mean TDC #1 in compression, or it could be one full rotation of the crank from TDC #1 in compression or 180* worth of cam/distributor rotation. You should rotate the engine over with the #1 spark plug removed. Put your finger over the spark plug hole as you rotate the engine over. When your finger gets blown off the spark plug seat, you are on the compression stroke. Align the mark on the balancer and you are set at TDC #1 on the compression stroke.

And if all you did was rotate the engine with the distributor still installed (just the cap taken off), then you did not change the distributor to crankshaft timing. You must remove the distributor to make large changes in timing.

The timing should be verified with an inductive timing light with the engine running, but you should be able to get it quite close by hand before you start the engine.

 

Finally figured out the problem. Only had 2 volts going to the electric choke which was flooding the engine while trying to start it. Because of that, I had to change the spark plugs, as most of them were fouled.

Got the power to the electric choke, adusted timing and changed spark plugs. Among all the other major tune up things I did... the truck runs excellent again.

Thanks for all your help!!!