carb identifier?
#11
nothing is really leaking now. but after turning those adjustment screws in it seems like the engine isnt getting any fuel. it was working fine before and i didnt touch the fuel pump at all the entire time i had it apart. just fiigures there is something always going to be wrong with this thing.
and the part that is leaking is a plunger looking thing. when you give it gas it pivots and pushes a rod down into the carb from the top. ill take pictures of it tonight and see if i can get them on here.
and the part that is leaking is a plunger looking thing. when you give it gas it pivots and pushes a rod down into the carb from the top. ill take pictures of it tonight and see if i can get them on here.
#12
The plunger you speak of is the accelerator pump which pushes more fuel into the engine with quick movement of the throttle.
The truck should run with 1.5 turns on the adjustment screws. Have you tried screwing the idle speed adjustment in by a good amount to make sure that it is getting enough air to start & run?
The truck should run with 1.5 turns on the adjustment screws. Have you tried screwing the idle speed adjustment in by a good amount to make sure that it is getting enough air to start & run?
#13
i took the thing apart just now and figured out im not getting any fuel at all. i was sitting there trying to start it for a good 15 minutes and it will only start when i spray the starter fluid in there. so i took the top off while it was still on the car and it is dry in the bowl. the float was stuck in the up position. and for some reason has a hole in the top of it now. i think i did this by sticking the rod for the air cleaner down the wrong hole. (whoops)
so now i believe its time for a new float. but back to the problem at hand. i know for a fact the engine is not getting any fuel. and i know the pump is working cause after i took the top off and pushed the float down all the fuel pressure built up squirted out like a rocket. so my pump is still good. i just need to figure out why the float is not working like it should. it seemed like it would get stuck on the walls of the bowl going up and down and get frozen in there. is it possible to shave off some of the material so that it floats freely in there or is there something completely wrong with my float. a new brass one one ebay is 9 bucks shipped so idk if brass is a good idea to go with or if i should just get a oem one.
again i am lost in all of this but i think i am learning quickly.
so now i believe its time for a new float. but back to the problem at hand. i know for a fact the engine is not getting any fuel. and i know the pump is working cause after i took the top off and pushed the float down all the fuel pressure built up squirted out like a rocket. so my pump is still good. i just need to figure out why the float is not working like it should. it seemed like it would get stuck on the walls of the bowl going up and down and get frozen in there. is it possible to shave off some of the material so that it floats freely in there or is there something completely wrong with my float. a new brass one one ebay is 9 bucks shipped so idk if brass is a good idea to go with or if i should just get a oem one.
again i am lost in all of this but i think i am learning quickly.
#14
Brass is probably more resilliant to the gas. it won't get brittle. as long as it's the proper design and size it shouldn't pose any problems. When setting the float depth follow the manual precisely it's absolutely vital to proper operation. The reason you weren't getting fuel at this point i believe is because the bowl filled, float got stuck, and now because the float is stuck in the UP position it closes the float fill valve off so no fuel will get into the bowl and therefore won't feed your jets/engine. Fix the float issue first and then adjust from there.
I'd also follow kyle's advice once you can get fuel into the bowl again start with the mixture 1.5 turns out and turn up the idle adjustment a bit till you can get it to run...then adjust the idle after she's running good.
Carbs can be finniky, don't get discouraged. Once she's running right you'll stand back with a big pride filled smile and say yeah, i did that.
I'd also follow kyle's advice once you can get fuel into the bowl again start with the mixture 1.5 turns out and turn up the idle adjustment a bit till you can get it to run...then adjust the idle after she's running good.
Carbs can be finniky, don't get discouraged. Once she's running right you'll stand back with a big pride filled smile and say yeah, i did that.
#15
it was closed because it was stuck. i took it apart while it was still on the truck and the bowl was dry. nothing was coming out of anything. ill try some new things tomorrow after class.
#16
It sounds like the float was either bent to one side or installed incorrectly. When in the fully up position, it should be centered in the bowl. The needle valve needs to remain clipped onto the float. That can be somewhat of a challenge.
#17
i have no problem getting the needle valve on the float. and it is centered. it just seems like it is too long. it hits the back walls of the bowl. im going to see if maybe i can sand down the float i have that has a hole in it to see if that would make it fit or not. it almost seems like its not the right float for it either.
when i move it up and down the needle valve barely moves if at all. does the pressure from the fuel make it squirt in or does the needle need to be like a mm out of the valve?
when i move it up and down the needle valve barely moves if at all. does the pressure from the fuel make it squirt in or does the needle need to be like a mm out of the valve?
#18
The float definitely shouldn't drag on the back wall of the bowl. Is it a plastic float or brass? If plastic, you could try shaving some off the back of the float because it should be solid if I remember correctly.
The needle doesn't need to move very far to open & allow fuel into the engine. Pressure from the pump helps it open to a certain extent, but it is the float that controls everything in response to the level of fuel in the bowl.
The needle doesn't need to move very far to open & allow fuel into the engine. Pressure from the pump helps it open to a certain extent, but it is the float that controls everything in response to the level of fuel in the bowl.
#19
so i took the float out and shaved it down a bit and now the engine roars. it doesnt even need the starter fluid.
the engine does not stay running unless i am on the gas though. i think i need to adjust the needles but im not sure which way to go. i did go 1.5 from back but that isnt where they where before. so im not sure where to start here. like the engine will stay running if i am on the gas and reving it or just holding it above idle but if i let off and it goes down into idle it will die.
any advice guys?
the engine does not stay running unless i am on the gas though. i think i need to adjust the needles but im not sure which way to go. i did go 1.5 from back but that isnt where they where before. so im not sure where to start here. like the engine will stay running if i am on the gas and reving it or just holding it above idle but if i let off and it goes down into idle it will die.
any advice guys?
#20
If the engine runs well with some throttle, the mixture screws are likely good for the moment. Set the idle up high enough to keep it running & check the timing.