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common problem's information

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Old 08-27-2012, 04:17 AM
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Hi I'm julie, new user here and I am a new lover of the k5. I don't know if this is the rite place to post this but I will give it a shot.
I would like to obtain a k5 (some where in between 1988-1992 for a few resions) but I dont have enough knowledge to make aneducated decision. I was going to see if anyone had any advice on what the common problems are, becides the rust issues. any opinion someone may have I appreciate any advise and I would love to learn it all at some point thanks feel free to message me to
 
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:12 PM
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you about mentioned it, rust is the major problem with these things. parts wear out on them just like any vehicle. ball joints, tie rods, etc. make sure the tailgate opens and the floor isnt rotted to heck back there

another issue these things have is the frame will crack by the back shocks and by the front steering box. it really isnt that big of a issue cause they sell repair kits for it.
 
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:42 PM
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Common problem for 1988-1992 Blazers:
Rust. Rocker panels, floors, seatbelt mounts, tailpans, tailgates, underneath the front seat, underneath the rear seat.
Engines burning oil (bad valve seals. Blue smoke when first started will indicate bad valve seals.)
Loose front end components
Whining rear differential
Oil and other fluid leaks
Rear main seal oil leak (area between back of oil pan and front of transmission.)
Transfer case problems, make sure you put the transfer case in at least 4HI to make sure the four wheel drive works.
Make sure the wiring harness isn't hacked up (lots of spliced or taped wires.) I've seen lots of Blazers with hacked wiring harnesses.

Also, I wouldn't recommend getting a Blazer made in 1992 or after. I would stick with the 1988-1991 year range. The Blazers made in that year range were the best Chevy ever made, they had more reliable TBI engines, and better looking interiors than the 1992 and up Blazer and the 1986 and down Blazers. 1989-1991 also was the best looking Blazers, they had the updated front grille and headlights along with a redesigned steering wheel and exterior trim.
 

Last edited by THePaRaSiTE5771; 08-28-2012 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:52 AM
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Thank you both for the info very much and i am always willing to learn more. i think i will like this fourm. O yes i forgot something in the last post i am thinking that i would like to purchase my vehicle with a few inch lift at leastt. IV heard to watch out for people not doing that properly. Is there any signs to let me know it was done wrong. I pretty mu h have two options, i can buy pre lifted or do it my self latter on down the line. What i would like to eventually have a very tough all terrain/minor rock crawling (street legal that's another thing i need to find out specs on what would make it not street legal) like i said thank you both very much i appreciate the info its so hard to just find one place on line where all of this info is accessible. thanks o and ill for sure keep pics up here in a few months of the new truck!
 
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Old 08-29-2012, 08:12 PM
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When looked at lifted Blazers, look for a crack in the frame near the steering box (front driver's side.)
 
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:43 PM
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Hi Julie, you're in Southern Oregon... luckily we don't have to worry about the rust like some parts of the country. I've seen some pretty nasty pictures of what people across the country have to deal with, not fun.

For starters you're looking for a 1987 - 1991 K5. After 91 the fullsize SUV had a sticker that said Blazer... but the caps don't come off and they are a much different vehicle.
I break out the 87-91 simply because those are the years that came with TBI (throttle body injection). If you're outside of the DEQ area of Medford then a earlier model might be something to consider because you can get some pretty decent power out of a properly tuned small block.

All of the rigs in this year range will come with the 700R4 over drive transmission. This is a decent transmission but when not kept properly adjusted can cause all sorts of problems. The transfer cases will be a NP208 for 87 and 88. In 1989 there was a one year only NP241 that had a mechanical speedometer output, after that they had electronic speedometer output.

Your axles will no doubt be 1/2 ton 10 bolts. If you plan to upgrade and do some good wheeling or rock crawling in the future with bigger tires you should plan on an axle upgrade. Could also be something to consider when making your first purchase.

I'll mention here that you should avoid anything with a body lift. Just walk away. You will find some jerry rigged **** that you don't want to deal with. They have their place but IMHO run.

the cost to lift a K5 is pretty reasonable, you can get lifts from $300 - $6,000. The latter would be a full on coil over linked setup, nirvana... if you budgeted about a grand you could get a nice quality all spring kit with the required u-bolts, raised steering arm, shocks and brake lines...

That's about all I can add tonight but I'll offer you this: I have an 86 K5 that has a crap ton of money and upgrades in it... selling it all for $4,500. While it is a little more extreme than you are probably looking for.... here it is. I live in between Salem and Portland.

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4" lift - one ton axles - new 37" all terrains - herculiner interior - custom auto meter gauges - dual batteries - upgraded engine wiring harness - softtopper - and much, much more...
 
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