Converting Electric Tailgate to Manual
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Beginning Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 29
From: Roanoke, VA
If you do not have a switch in the dash, then you will not have any power going to either the light blue or tan/white wire going into the tailgate at the bottom. If you are not going to use a dash switch, then shrink wrap the end of each wire separately and tuck them up inside the tailgate somewhere out of the way.
The pink wire feeds the key switch in the tailgate. For UP, the cut-out switch is inline on the light blue wire. This prohibits the closing of the window whenever the tailgate is down. If the switch has failed open or is not properly installed, it will not close when the tailgate is closed and you will not be able to open the window. Many people just bypass this switch.
The pink wire feeds the key switch in the tailgate. For UP, the cut-out switch is inline on the light blue wire. This prohibits the closing of the window whenever the tailgate is down. If the switch has failed open or is not properly installed, it will not close when the tailgate is closed and you will not be able to open the window. Many people just bypass this switch.
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Beginning Member
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Roanoke, VA
UPDATE:
We have officially got the tailgate working!!! Thank you very much for your help Swartlkk. For whatever reason, that cut off switch wouldn't let the window go up. We did what you said and bypassed the cut off with a rigged jump switch that can be taken on and off if I ever want to get it working exactly right. I don't really care about having that safety on there as I don't plan on having the window up with the tailgate down. Just waiting on my new bottom track to get in and we will put the glass back in it. My next task is to put a new floor in the cargo area. I am going to have to teach myself how to weld so I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.
We have officially got the tailgate working!!! Thank you very much for your help Swartlkk. For whatever reason, that cut off switch wouldn't let the window go up. We did what you said and bypassed the cut off with a rigged jump switch that can be taken on and off if I ever want to get it working exactly right. I don't really care about having that safety on there as I don't plan on having the window up with the tailgate down. Just waiting on my new bottom track to get in and we will put the glass back in it. My next task is to put a new floor in the cargo area. I am going to have to teach myself how to weld so I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.
Last edited by Nick_K5_Blazer; Apr 3, 2011 at 08:55 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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i agree with you. ive had electric's in the past and i love nothing more then the electric motor going out when you need to get something out of the back. or not rolling all the way back up when its cold out.
so basically yea you need the manual regulator and.. thats really pretty much it. you will need the manual crank instead of the keyed plate thats up there but you can use a pickle fork to turn it up and down if you really want to be cheep
so basically yea you need the manual regulator and.. thats really pretty much it. you will need the manual crank instead of the keyed plate thats up there but you can use a pickle fork to turn it up and down if you really want to be cheep
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Beginning Member
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From: Roanoke, VA
LMC Truck Parts - Page 33
Check out part #15
Last edited by swartlkk; Apr 3, 2011 at 07:45 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the edit function to add additional information in your post if another member has yet to respond.
I am aware that LMC truck carries them, however, I have read that they are not of the same quality as the originals which is why I recommend used originals.
As far as why to go electric. For the convenience. I know the short comings of the system and will address a few before I ever use it and others as I experience them.
As far as why to go electric. For the convenience. I know the short comings of the system and will address a few before I ever use it and others as I experience them.
Thread Starter
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Beginning Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 29
From: Roanoke, VA
I am aware that LMC truck carries them, however, I have read that they are not of the same quality as the originals which is why I recommend used originals.
As far as why to go electric. For the convenience. I know the short comings of the system and will address a few before I ever use it and others as I experience them.
As far as why to go electric. For the convenience. I know the short comings of the system and will address a few before I ever use it and others as I experience them.
One of the first things I am going to do to the tailgate is rewire it with relays. Since my truck doesn't have the wiring already, I can start with a clean slate. An 8ga wire with a 30A circuit breaker will run from the battery to the relays to be switched for controlling the motor. Another 8ga wire will serve as a dedicated ground for the tailgate. And two 16-18ga wires will run from the interior switch back to the relays where they will join in with the wires from the tailgate switch. I will likely keep the cutout switch, but may replace it with one that is more reliable as well as move it to the switching side of the 'up' relay.
Another weakness in the design is the cable. I have an extra motor, cable, and regulator sitting in my garage right now and may work at redesigning that to be more robust. It may just end up being that I solder the end of the cable solid so that the un-spooling effect doesn't occur. I may end up taking the extra motor that I have apart and seeing what can be modified/upgraded inside there as well. Most of the time though, if the regulator is kept well lubed, the window is properly adjusted, and the motor gets good power, the system will work very well.
Another weakness in the design is the cable. I have an extra motor, cable, and regulator sitting in my garage right now and may work at redesigning that to be more robust. It may just end up being that I solder the end of the cable solid so that the un-spooling effect doesn't occur. I may end up taking the extra motor that I have apart and seeing what can be modified/upgraded inside there as well. Most of the time though, if the regulator is kept well lubed, the window is properly adjusted, and the motor gets good power, the system will work very well.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 23
Why not just post the info here? 
