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Electric Tailgate Window

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  #11  
Old 02-15-2010, 09:43 PM
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Probably should have just kept the crank. Had one for four years with no problems. Electrics are nice WHEN they work
 
  #12  
Old 02-15-2010, 10:18 PM
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AW...c'mon now. The challenge is on! You're not going to let a machine get the best of you are you?
 
  #13  
Old 02-15-2010, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Gimpy Blazer
Do you have any sort of tracks or guides that might have been tweaked when the window slammed down? It might have been getting that way anyway from ewading you original post. Sounds like something is jamming it or making it skewed. The window circuit has an auto restting circuit breaker in it (most likely) and you're probably loading it up to where it pops which is why your drill works on it. Happens though. I had a side window that did the same thing and it was a worn and screwed up track. Don't know if you have clips (plastic guides) in the sides of the window but if you do they can vause a real headache. Just a few thoughts on the subject. It sounds like your problem is mechanical not electrical.
there is no circuit breaker in my truck (it's a '90)

while it's been almost 2 years since i had the TG in my 'Burb apart, & i've never dealt with the cable style systems, it really is a simple design/set-up.

there really isn't anything inside the TG's to cause much binding, but i'm wondering about the condition of that big-*** spring in there. have you ever really looked @ the spring? i know that when i did the motor in my other 'Burb, the spring was actually cracked, but the motor was shot as well-maybe because of the broken spring. hmmm.........never put that together before.

question........have you tried to measure the load on the motor when trying to close the window when the TG is up (closed)? how about when it's down (open)?

just trying to see if maybe one of the pullies are stuck or is dragging. but i'm sure you've checked all that out already.
 
  #14  
Old 02-15-2010, 11:09 PM
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Like I said, I don't know about full size Blazers but the auto resetting circuit breaker is in the window motor itself if it's anything like side window motors. This is why some windows will go up and down with ease and others drag and stop on the same vehicle. Good example is if you had two bad ones and just changed one motor. It would zip up and down while the other still drags and stops.
Good poiont about the spring. I would hate to try change one though. They'll hurt you. Did you say you have replaced the regulator?
 
  #15  
Old 02-16-2010, 07:16 AM
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Most of these tailgates will operate like you stated when in the lowered position. The one I just picked up for my K5 would open just fine while laying down, but would not pull back in. This is normal since the spring in the regulator is there to help the window go up. Even a weak spring in the regulator will stop the motor from pulling the window back in when the tailgate is down.
 
  #16  
Old 02-16-2010, 11:01 AM
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Thanks again
OK not sure what spring you are refering to? There is a spring for the door release latch for when the window is down. Also, there are no tracks. As for the motor?? Anything is possible. Unfortunately I had to buy rebuilt motors until I found a parts store that had a new one. That one worked the best but that best was about 4 inches pushing up. As I said. I works fine when there is no load. ie....with the tailgate down, it pushes the window out fine. With if up, it lowers the window fine. But in each case, the reverse wont work. Tailgate down, wont retract. Up, wont push up. So when the load on the window increases, the motor doesnt have enough umph to move it much. However.....it worked fine for 3 years??

Thanks....I just realized what spring you mean. The coil spring on the regulator. What's the chance that 2 regulators have bad springs??? Makes sense tho as something has changed and there is not enough power to overcome the resistance from the weight of the window.
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Last edited by swartlkk; 02-16-2010 at 12:05 PM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to include additional information in your post if another member has not replied.
  #17  
Old 02-16-2010, 12:13 PM
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There are (or should be) two channels inside the tailgate on either end of the window. These channels are what keeps the window in the proper orientation for going in and out of the tailgate without scraping on things. I have seen these get bent when people do not properly support the window when operating it without the tailgate in the closed position. They definitely can have an affect on how the window performs.

This LMCTruck.com catalog page shows the channels (12) I am talking about:
 
  #18  
Old 02-17-2010, 08:58 PM
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thanks for that pic Kyle. i need to replace #18 on both arms in my 'Burb.

now i know where to get them.
 
  #19  
Old 02-17-2010, 09:00 PM
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Should be the same part (I think the regulators are the same), but check the 'burb catalog to make sure.
 
  #20  
Old 02-17-2010, 09:21 PM
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They make a better setup than the roller/rivet combo. I know it's a Dorman part. You drill out the rivet and it's a 1/4" stud and nut with a roller on it. This is out of the Rock Auto catalog. GM sells them but they want a fortune for them. I've used them several times and they work great. Lot easier to install too. Look under interior parts and window regulator roller.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...94%2BCHEVROLET
 

Last edited by Gimpy Blazer; 02-17-2010 at 09:22 PM. Reason: added info


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